Tibet - China

Tags: Kankan, Beyla, Cotton Gin, Hotel Bate, Guinea

Beyla to Kankan.

In a world without rules except that of nature we must expect anything. The morning we leave the area of Beyla we face the next stretch of bad road, and see the same old scenery of rain forest, by now a regular sight. Long, unbelievable potholes slow us down and make our journey a hell, once again. My heart always jumps at the sight of a pothole which is as large as a swimming pool, though not as deep, which turns out to be our Savior. We make it slowly through the forests, the roads in unbelievable condition, slightly better than in Roman times. Sometimes driving at 10 mph, I think how long it will take me to reach Kankan, today's final destination. No time to stop for a rest, just to get out of this jungle is my only thought, for I am slowly but steadily getting tired of this menacing place. I cannot see the beauty of the forest, the sometimes appearing rice paddies. It is getting stale to my eyes, I am possessed by one thought, to get out finally and find my truck and passengers.

I reach the French Cotton plantation with the ginnery in the afternoon and I know that I am not far from my destination. Another checkpoint at the entrance of Kankan, this time much more subtle than in the southern part of the country. Tired and completely slugged out I pay and pass through till I enter the city of Kankan, the largest in the north of Guinea.

At the time the Renault truck left its home, one agreement was struck. When nothing is heard for 3 weeks - meet us in Kankan. Neither knew anything about the city, the sheer size would indicate that some facilities are available. A decent Hotel, shower, AC, this is what I long for after days of driving through uninhabitable territory. Sometimes you feel like an explorer, for many hours not a soul on the road. What a view to see people, moving in cars, going after their business, shops, marketenders, the whole lot. Joy comes up and the thought of a hot bath does the rest.

When I roll into the town, I am overcome by some deja vu. No one can explain this. And I know that in this remote city I will come across something that I expect to find here. The exhaust system has suffered greatly on the road, and during the last 100 km a bolder has ripped of the muffler. The sound of the car is like a stockcar in the great price of Indiana. I find the first mechanic welder and he does the job in minutes. When I ask for directions to the next hotel, I am guided through the city's only main road. Hotel Bate is not far away, I am told.

The main square comes close, and I slow down instinctively, as always to be watchful not to hit anyone crossing the dusty main street, a self protecting measure. For the unlucky one that hits a jaywalker could be lynched if he is unlucky. My luck has brought me through all the perils and dangers one can face. I search the streets carefully, the roads to see a familiar face. Nothing has crossed my eyes so far. When we reach the main communication center with the telecom office and huge transmission tower, I suddenly hear my name being shouted from across the street, the familiar voice is all to known. I have found my employee who comes to me and hugs me like a long lost brother, and I can understand the emotion. Finally we are reunited, after nearly 4 weeks of uncertainty, anxious moments have come to an end. We are in Kankan, Guinea, after all, the city where we have planned to meet....

Next : The relaxation, and retrieval of the vehicle.....

Tags: Guinea, Mandiana, Niani, Mining town, diamonds

Mandiana to Niani, Guinea

During the night I feel tense. The devastating effect of the heat radiating from the uncovered Aluminum roof that covers my shabby Hotel room is having its effect. It leaves me drenched in sweat, a torture; unwanted Sauna in the tropics.

I know my car is parked in the unsecured, open yard of the compound that has one watchman who I can't trust. I have my emergency cash stuffed in a pillow I use to support my back from the steady bumps along the horrible road that crosses Guinea from the south to the north, a thousand kilometers full.

Every now and then I toss myself, restless, from one side to the other, trying to find the best sleeping position, in vain. At 3 AM I glance at my watch, lighting my Communicator which serves as a torch, and word processor. I hear a disturbing noise, I am certain from the car, outside the room, parked at a distance of 6-7 meters away. My mind is fully alert, I notice the strange sounds, like someone attempting to open the locks. At the moment you are paralyzed, thinking of the dangers that accompany any attempt in a lawless place such as this, to challenge an intruder

I struggle to my feet, Nokia in hand, still powered, slowly tapping to the door, unlocking it, and I open it in a sudden move. I glance at my car, nothing unusual. The noise has stopped at this moment.

Puzzled, I move towards the vehicle in the dark, the whole town lies in darkness, no source of electricity powers any part of this mining place.

Suddenly the noise again starts, coming from my left. The LED light of my communicator is not strong and I see a movement, about  meters apart from where I stand. A torchlight is lit and its beam cuts towards me. I hear the voice of a man and a woman speaking in French. When I finally realize I begin to relax.

A man and a woman standing in front of their 'Hotel room', attempting to kick start the motorbike they use. Here in the middle of Mandiana, a couple had rented a room to find some privacy. He apologizes for the noise and soon they continue before I return back to my room, relieved and exhausted.

This particular scene is always in my memory, it shows that even here, in the last corner of civilization, people are basically the same. I try to catch some sleep, the ambient temperature has dropped now with the morning dew settling on the roof, I am finally dozing off.

.............Mandiana Customs Officials, the arrangement ...next episode.  .