Well, I never thought I'd be happy to breathe in the clean air of Bangkok, but I am.

It's great to be back. As exciting a city as Beijing is, the pollution level is judged by the visibility. If you can see buildings 500 meters away, the day is not bad. The government actually keeps track of the number of days you can see the blue sky, they are so infrequent. The city is blanketed in a golden haze, which is kind of romantic looked at in a certain way.

Coming here after two intense weeks in Beijing makes me see both cities with a fresh set of eyes.

I love Bangkok, but sometimes hate the occasionally fake smiles I get. In contrast, almost everything in Beijing is fake, from fake blood protein and medicine to cardboard fried in pork fat in dumplings to the "pure" water that really comes from the tap in office water coolers. I went to the Silk Market, a notorious source of counterfeit brand-name clothes, and they checked my money under a special light to make sure it wasn't fake too.

In Bangkok, the biggest threat from the counterfeit market is bringing home a "fake" woman. Not that there is anything wrong with that, as long as the package has been properly labeled so there are no unwelcome surprises.

Thailand is an easy country to live in with easy-going people. Beijing is a difficult country to live in full of striving people. I think this applies to the ex-pats as well as the local people. You can't really live in Beijing without knowing Chinese. This is not true at all in Bangkok. The difference adds a certain electricity to the atmosphere in Beijing that strongly contrasts with the pervasive mai pen rai passivity in Bangkok.

Similarly, Beijing is bustling with people trying desperately to make money. On the contrary, Bangkok is full of malls for people who seem to have inherited their money. And although Bangkok has many people trying their hardest to get by or get ahead, it seems the majority are trying hard to have a life in which they don't have to try too hard.

The layout of the cities is very different. Thai people can take credit for some of the best design in the world, reflected in everything from their architecture to their advertising. One of the underlooked treasures of Bangkok are, I think, the incredibly creative skyscrapers that dot the city. However, the city layout is a mess. Many streets have no sidewalks. Sidewalks will have telephone booths or bus stop shelters blocking them. The road system is a tangle. The parks are beautiful, but scarce. I wonder if there is even a Thai word for "urban planning."

City planners in modern Beijing, on the other hand, had the advantage of absolute power to expropriate land and build wide boulevards and regular ring roads, centered around the Forbidden City and Tienanmen Square. The buildings in Beijing are well designed but somewhat held back by following Chinese feng shi design principles. At night the buildings come alive due to the common practice of highlighting building lines with colorful neon tubing.

Cities like New York, London, Paris, Tokyo and Toronto in many ways have more in common with each other than with other parts of their own countries. This global urban culture has with it a common sense of what is "cool." Beijing clearly belongs in this club of cities, Bangkok, probably not. Whether this is a good or bad thing I cannot say. (Although I do sometimes form an opinion on it when the dance floor of the club I am in is dotted with tables.)

It's good to be back here and I hope to live life to the fullest for the next six or eight weeks. After that, I plan to move to Beijing and see what life has in store. 

I'm in Beijing until June 8. I'd love to meet any myspacers in town who can show me around.

I brought my own tube of Colgate toothpaste and I'm glad... the tiny tube included with my toothbrush at my hotel is from the company that has been banned in the U.S. and other countries for containing a banned chemical used in antifreeze.

Imagine backpackers getting off the Mayflower at Plymouth rock and mingling with the native Americans.

Although it sounds very condescending, this sums up the current state of affairs at Don Det, and island in southern Laos where I recently visited from Bangkok.

Don Det and its sister island Don Khon (not to be confused with the nearby Don Khong) are not on the electrical grid, and are populated mostly by rice farmer, who still use traditional methods.

The paddys are small, are water buffaloes still share the burden of farm work.

My good friend Fahng and I took the overnight sleeper train from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani (around 700 baht second class). We took a songthaw across town to the bus station (10 baht), where we caught an international bus to Pakse (around 200 baht).

As a side note, the official "Information" counter at the train station tried to steer us to a particular driver to take a cab across town, telling us the trip would take an hour. If you are really rushed, take a cab by all means, but the songthaw goes straight to the bus station, stopping all the way of course. When we said we'd take a bus, he tried to put our luggage in the back of the cab. When I asked why, he said we needed to take a cab to get to the market. It's dishonest and disgraceful, but not unusual for the official information desks here, sadly. Watch out.

Crossing the border was fine. As a Canadian, it cost $US42. Bring American money or you will be cheated on the exchange rate by the customs official. You need a photo, but if you don't have one, you can just pay a dollar and not worry about it. Most countries must pay between $35 and $40. It costs very little for Thais. It should be free, but Fahng had to pay and "administrative fee" because they were open "after hours." (This also happened to me both ways crossing into to Laos to go to Vientiene.)

The bus from Ubon to Pakse took about 3.5 hours. In Pakse, we took a tuk-tuk (80 baht, too much I'm sure) to some field or market. From there we got a songthaw to Don Khong for about $4.

We rented a scooter for about $5 and drove around the island slowly in about 3 hours. Don Khong has electricity, some nice guest houses and snazzy low rise hotels built to Southeast Asian tastes. Like Don Khon and Don Det to the south, it is covered with rice paddys. But Don Khong has electricity and a certain affluence. People have cars and motorcycles.

We stayed in a beautiful teak French colonial mansion, Auberage Sala Done, for $20 a night -- very romantic. In retrospect, we probably could have got 80 percent of the atmosphere for a quarter of the price at Villa Kang Khong.

We had our first meal at the Souksan Restaurant and hotel, partly because it was highlighted in the Lonely Planet as having vegetarian food. In fact, the food was mediocre, and the other guest houses also had veggie items. The rooms were lovely, clean and modern in a Southeast Asian way, so we skipped them, looking for atmosphere.

Our time on Don Khong was pleasant, and there was an interesting-looking trek/hike across the center of the island that a local guide had set up. However, the island is big enough that you watch rather than interact with the local people, so if you have limited time I suggest skipping it for Don Det.

We chartered a boat for $16 from Don Khong to Don Det. I found it fascinating, but Fahng was bored, noting that the Mekong River runs by Nong Khai, but not as good because it had no naga fireballs.

In fact, Fahng clearly regarded Laos as a poor cousin to Thailand, noting the beer was not as good as in Thailand (untrue, by most accounts), the food was not as spicy as it should be considering how spicy Thai-Lao Issan food is, and the rice paddys are like the ones in Thailand only "not as good" -- more primative.

She also noted with satisfaction that they all can understand Thai "because they watch Thai shows on TV." But referring to the fact that Lao people greet each other with a phrase that means "things are going well" in Thailand, she said, "Everyone greets me by saying they are OK, but I didn't ask them and I don't care!" (She was making a joke.)

One thing about the culture shock amused me a great deal -- her frustration with the laxidasical attitude of the service people, and their apparent stubborn refusal to do anything outside the normal routine, such as making the food spicy or substituting meat for tofu.

"These people are friendly but slow! I can't take it." Hallalujah, I thought to myself. She finally knows what it feels like to be a foreigner in Thailand. Her comments sounded almost exactly like remarks I hear Westerners all the time. Culture shock must be universal.

After about an hour in the boat, we were dropped off at the main pier on the northern tip of Don Det.

The best list of vegetarian restaurants in Bangkok seems to be at http://www.happycow.net/asia/thailand/bangkok/ (Thanks Joel)

My favorite restaurant in Bangkok is Beruit, on Silom in the J-City mall right near the Silom BTS exit across the street from Central. It is in an open mall that also has Subway (good veggie footlongs) and KFC (meat eaters only).

Beside Beruit is a new Tex-Mex food stall that makes enjoyable, non-oily burritos, tacos and nachos.

The place I'm most likely to take a date is Crepes and Co on Sukhumvit soi 12, which has an extensive menu of vegetarian (and meaty) Mediterranian food.

I would recommend avoiding the neighboring Cabbages and Condoms. Great social mission, lousy veggie food.

Speaking of Crepes, the monomaniacally crepe themed Bug and Bee on Silom down the street from Beruit has an extensive and rotating selection of vegetarian food, and is a fun place to chill out. For some reason, it is a place I would only go if I was in the area and felt like hanging out, even though the food is pretty good. Strangely, every single dish seems to have crepes or crepe components (ie noodles made from crepes) in it.

The food courts in the malls are excellent options. The best is at MBK, which has a vegetarian section with mock meat, as well as an Indian and Lebanese stall. You can also get mango and durian with sticky rice. There is a second, more upscale food court at MBK that reputedly has a branch of the Tamirand Cafe. The food court in the 1st floor food hall at Chitlom central has many options, including barley salads, vegetarian Thai food and Mexican. The sixth floor food court in the same mall is swanky: you could bring a date there for dinner. It has international food of all types. The international food court on the 6th floor on Emporium is similar. There is a hidden Thai food court nearby where you can get pasta with tomato sauce. Otherwise, veggie pickings are slim (but cheap and tasty).

The main Tamarind cafe, a pure vegetarian restaurant on 27 Sukhumvit Soi 20, has a nice atmosphere, incorporating a lush rooftop garden and cool photo gallery. It is a comforatable place to read a book and chill out. But I don't go too often because it is a little bit too expensive and not quite tasty enough.

Govinda on Soi 22 offers Italian vegetarian food. You have to go down a small sub-street about 200 meters down from Sukhumvit. It is more reasonably priced and the food is more tasty than Tamarind. There is a Scandanavian hostel and bar beside it that is a cool place to play shuffleboard and relax.

Lemongrass on Soi 24 can make excellent vegetarian Thai salads, although they are not on the menu. It has really good Thai food and is a great place to take visiting relatives.

Komala's Indian fast food restaurant on 15 Sukhumvit soi 20 is excellent and cheap, but the ambiance is like a McDonalds.

For street food, a sidewalk place on Sukhumvit right beside Thong Lo has a picture menu and some great veggie options. Try the "Dok Kra Jeaw."

Around Thong Lo, Woodstock has a great bar atmosphere, a good pool table, and some nice veggie options, including a black bean chili. Soi 13, Sukhumvit Soi Thonglor.

If you want to spash out, Harvey (129 Sukhumvit 55, Thonglor Soi 9) has a relatively affordable 500 baht fixed lunch, which usually has a vegetarian friendly option.

Places that friends have recommended and I have been meaning to try are a Thai vegetarian food court at or near the Chattachuk market (more information welcome!) and Anotai at 976/17 Soi Rama 9 Hospital, Hwaykwang (at Bangkapi).

Untested recommendations from friends:

whole earth Sukhumvit soi 24-26

Ob-oon, Chinese-style vegetarian on Rama 4 in the Samyan area

PLEASE TELL ME YOUR EXPERIENCES AND PICKS

Get in touch with your inner monkey! If you are fit enough to bowl or go dancing, you can rock climb. And don't be afraid. Rock climbing is safe, fun, easy for beginners and very social.

There is a fiberglass rock climbing wall near the Ekkamai BTS station that anyone can use. It is on the grounds of the Bangkok Planetarium and Science Center complex on Sukhumvit between sois 40-42.

There is a sports complex (building 6) with an olympic size swimming pool and ashpalt soccer field. The climbing wall is outdoors along the service road beside the pool.

You can rent all the equipment you need for only 50 baht per person in the office beside the swimming pool.

However, you have to know what you are doing. The staff do not speak English. As far as I can tell, you have to make arrangements in advance if you need instruction or a guide, and pay more.

The wall is closed Monday. It seems to remain open as long as the sun is up.

Warning: You have to climb the scaffolding at the back to put up a top rope. Also, some of the footholds will twist when you are climbing. The wall sometimes feels like it is swaying when you are near the top, but I believe that it is secure. The staff assure me it is safe and children use it regularly.

I would like to go Thursday at 1:30 if anyone can join me. I can teach you everything. Male, female, old, young, doesn't matter, it's just for fun.


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Tel. : (02) 392-5951-9
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Here is a map:

If you don't want to spring for 3,000 baht ($85)  or more to fly to Samui or Krabi for a weekend on the beach, the beach resort town of Hua Hin is a pleasant option. It avoids the pervasive sleaze of Pattaya, but has more to offer Western tourists than the closer Bang Saen beach, which is VERY Thai (No Western food, Thais swimming in their clothes rather than Western bathing suits, a beach covered entirely with deck chairs, sun umbrellas and inner tube rental spots).

I've been to Hua Hin about five times, and here is what I found:

Getting there and back

If you are in a hurry and are staying near the Skytrain, take a minivan from Victory Monument. It costs 180 baht ($5) and takes about 3.5 hours. You can ask at the station where the vans leave from -- if you toward the monument and take the last Skytrain exit on the left, you are on the way. You may have to wait for a while for the van on Friday. The food stalls there are delicious.

If you have a little more time, consider taking the train. It takes about an hour longer, but you can sit in the dining car, have a drink and chat with people. It's pretty cheap, and stops in the heart of town, not too far from the beach.

I have not figured out how to get back in a minivan. However, air conditioned buses regularly go to Bangkok. I think they are under 200 baht. The downside: they stop at the Southern Bus Terminal, so be prepared for a cab ride home. The terminal is near the night market.

Where to stay

When you get out of the van, take a tuk tuk or motorcycle to the guest houses on the piers near the Hilton. It's close enough to walk, if you are in the mood. The cleanest and best one is called Bird (the best room ocean views on two sides and a television is 450 baht). Neighboring Mod is falling apart but cheaper (I've gotten a room for 180). Some of the other ones look good too.

These wooden rooms are on old wooden piers. You can hear the waves washing in and out below you as you sleep, and smell the ocean as sit and relax outside your room. These rooms are much more atmospheric than the nearby Hilton.

The beach

The beach is about 400 meters away, past a cove with a Chinese temple decorated with colorful and cheerful looking dragons. A number of beachside bars provide lawn chairs and umbrellas for a small fee, and will bring food to you table. About 500 meters down, past the main group, is my favorite, bedecked with the national flags of dozens of countries. This place features a Thai band who are bad enough that the tourists feel comfortable grabbing the mike or a guitar and sitting in, confident they can do no worse. The place has a nice sound system and plays good, old music, and also Deep Purple.

There are a lot of restaurants and resorts at all price points along the beach. You can also rent a Hobie Cat sail boat, and I forget what else.

The beach and water are clean and pleasant. The crowd tends to be a lot of older vacationing Europeans with some high society Thais.

Nightlife

There is Thai boxing twice a week. I've never been. There is also a drag show twice a night. I've never been. There is no Pattaya-like sleaze: a few girlie bars confined to a small strip near the Hilton. The night market, within walking distance from the piers, has lots of typical tourist fare, as well as tasty food stalls that also sell booze. There are many travel guides that list some of the more upscale eating and resort options. But in my opinion, if you want to spend some money, consider flying to Samui, Krabi or Phuket.

The most lively place to go is the brew pub attached to the Hilton, where a live band plays hip hop and pop songs, and everyone dances.

Eating 

There are all kinds of international food for every budget. I enjoy eating at the seafood restaurants on the same stretch of piers as the guest houses.

PS Do I get a cut if someone buys this book I'm currently reading? What is my motivation for listing that?