Seal Replacement Instructions..:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O />

Safety Warning!

Turn off the Power BEFORE performing this procedure.  Failure to comply with this requirement, can lead to electrical shock and/or electrocution!

The following instructions are general. Seal components are similar for most centrifugal pumps.

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1. Separate the pump housing. Most pumps have either a large metal clamp ring or a series of nuts and bolts the hold the pump housing to the motor plate. Using a socket or crescent wrench, remove the nut that is securing clamp together or loosen and remove the series of nuts and bolts. Some banded pumps have a hand knob instead of a nut holding the clamp together.  Slide back the half of the pump assembly with the motor attached. Try to place the pump on a suitable work surface. Note: You can either leave the electrical conduit intact while doing this procedure or if you require more space you can disconnect the wires form the motor. Be sure the POWER IS OFF and note the wiring so you reattach the wires the same way! 2. Expose the Impeller Remove the screws from the impeller cover (diffuser).Remove the impeller cover (diffuser). Be sure not to lose any of the screws! 3. Remove the Impeller You will need to stop the motor shaft from turning while you rotate the impeller counter-clockwise to remove it.  The use of vice grips is helpful to hold the motor shaft while turning the impeller at the same time. Be very careful when doing this, you don't want to damage the motor shaft. Unscrew and remove the impeller. 4. Remove the seal plate Remove the (seal plate) from the motor to gain access to the motor shaft. Usually there will be 4 bolts that hold the seal plate to the motor. You will need to remove the impeller before you can remove the seal plate. 4. Remove the old seal assembly Using a pair of channel-locks, pull off the old pump spring seal from the motor shaft. Inside the center of the seal plate is the ceramic part of the pump seal. Be careful not to damage the plastic of the seal plate. You can also push it out from behind instead, using a screwdriver knock out the old ceramic seal. Note: Be sure the rubber ring seat is removed with the ceramic portion also. 5. Clean and prepare to replace the seal Lightly wipe off the motor shaft and the seal plate.  Inspect the seal plate for damage, cracks, melted or out of round will cause the pump to leak even with a new seal. Carefully inspect the impeller for cracks or breaks. 6. Install the new seal assembly Note: NEVER touch the FACE of the ceramic with anything metallic or greasy, because you could destroy the integrity of the pump seal. Press the ceramic part of the seal into the seal plate... using clean fingers to get it seated. (The rubber part towards the seal plate, the white ceramic facing away from the motor.) Slide the spring seal part over the motor shaft.  Push it past the threads. (The black carbon facing away from the motor.)  Do NOT LUBRICATE this seal with anything besides water!  If you do, then it could end up slipping against the impeller, and eventually overheat, destroying the seal.  7. Replace the Impeller Using the Vice grip method mentioned previously, hold the motor shaft to prevent rotation, and then screw on the impeller. HAND TIGHT.  The rotation of the pump motor will keep it tight. 8. Replace the Diffuser Now realign the diffuser, and tighten the screws. Ensure that the impeller does not touch or interfere with the diffuser, by rotating it with you finger. 9. Re ensemble the pump and motor Inspect and lube the large seal plate o-ring for cracks or damage. If it's flattened or stretched out, it may need to be replaced.

Be sure the clamp is 'around' the outside rim on both sides of the seal plate and the pump housing. This can be a little tricky to get aligned.

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Tighten the retaining band with a wrench or socket, or if your pump has a knob, use your hand to tighten it. If you pump uses nuts and blots reassemble and tighten. Trouble shooting! If the pump leaks around the seal plate, it may help to try tightening it a little more.  Did you lubricate the o-ring? If it still leaks, then you will need to replace the seal plate o-ring. If the pump leaks at the seal, Did you see any cracks in the seal plate? Did you seat the seal correctly? ( Black carbon face of the spring side needs to make contact with the white ceramic side)   If you had a pump basket melt in the strainer housing there's a good chance the seal plate has been damaged by the heat and may need to be replaced.

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Swimming pool Trivia

Titanic was the first ocean liner to have a swimming pool and a gym.   [Source: internet]

The turbopump on the Space Shuttle main engine is so powerful it could drain an average family-sized swimming pool in 25 seconds [Source: NASA]

Esther Williams did not win any Olympic medals for swimming or for diving. The year she was to compete (1940) the Olympics were suspended due to WWII. [Source: internet]

In some volcanic areas such as Iceland, the temperature rises beneath the surface of the earth as high as 680 degrees F (360 degrees C) that engineers can tap the geothermal energy by piping hot water from underground to warm nearby homes, offices and factories. An outdoor swimming pool in the Icelandic capital of Reykjavik is heated so effectively by this method that it remains open and in use all year round.
[Source:Reader's Digest Book of Facts]

Benjamin Franklin invented swim-fins. [Source: internet]

The first heated swimming pool was built by Gaius Maecenas of Rome in the first century BC. [Source: about.com]

In the 1948 Olympics, the U.S. won every event in the swimming competition. [Source:USA Swimming]

TV and Movie Trivia

Twilight Zones episode: The Bewitchin' Pool

When Sport and Jeb jump in the pool in the last scene, Sport is wearing a shirt. When she comes up in Aunt T's land, she is wearing a swim suit. [Source:tv.com]

This article courtesy of www.everything4pools.com

TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE, 

POOL and SPA PUMPS and MOTORS

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PUMP WILL NOT PRIME

• No water in strainer housing and/or Pump housing is cracked or damaged
• Pump strainer lid is not tight or is cracked / damaged
• Lid o-ring needs lubracating or is Damaged 
• Pool or spa water level is below skimmer
• Pump basket or skimmer basket is clogged with debris
• Clogged or broken impeller and/or volute a small stone or debris by-passes the pump basket it will break the impeller.
• Closed valve in piping system
• Pump is on low speed (two-speed units only)
• Suction line has air leak. You can have a leak at any joint especially at the first fitting that is screwed into the strainer housing.
• Suction line has an obstruction.You may have clogged suction piping, which is caused by items that get sucked through the skimmer into the piping, usually lodging at any turn in the piping.
• Damaged mechanical pump seal
• There may be a leak in the underground piping.

Spring Swimming Pool Opening Guidline


1. Remove the cover and clean it. (Remove the leaves and debris from the pool cover) Pump off any excess rain water with a submersible pump Try to minimize the amount of water and debris that gets into the pool water.  Some dirty cover water will always get in!

Clean off cover and allow the cover to dry before folding and storing it for the summer. fan-folding the cover will make it faster and easier to put the cover on when it's time to close the pool. If you are storing the cover in a shed or garage we reccomend putting a Mouse A Way pouch in the storage bag to deter mice from damaging the cover.

2. Remove the all the plugs in the pool and skimmers and replace return outlet fittings. Reinstall or reassemble the pump/s, filter,  skimmer baskets and return eyeball fittings, Ladders, diving board (Lubricate all bolts on the dive board, ladders and/or rails.  This will prevent them from rusting over the summer)  Lubricate all o-rings and use teflon tape on pipe threads.

3. Bring the water level up to normal level (the middle of the tile line or middle of skimmer opening.) Keep in mind you will need to add water to the pool every time you backwash the filter.

4. Turn on the power. Make sure circuit breakers, switches, and time clock trippers are in the normal operating positions.(You may have to turn on the circuit breaker from inside the house.)

5. Restart the circulation equipment (Prime the pump: fill the pump strainer basket with water, close the cover securely then start pump). Note your start up pressure on your pressure gauge on the filter. Look for leaks or drips. (Try tightening the fittings if you have a leak.)
Add new DE through the skimmer if you have a DE filter.

6. Clean the pool. Vacuum any debris out of the bottom. Skim the pool surface to remove floating debris. Brush the pool walls and tile line.

7. Shock the pool with  chlorine shock. You will want to add enough to raise the chlorine level of the pool to at least 3-5.0 ppm. (Don't throw shock directly into the pool ! You could bleach the liner or stain the surface. Add the granular shock chlorine into a bucket of water and then add that mixture into the skimmer while the system is running.)

8. Balance the water chemistry and check the levels frequently during the first few days.

9. Run the circulation system 24 hours straight for the first several days or until the water has cleared completely. The filter must be backwashed after a pressure gain of 10 psi (from your starting pressure) (back wash sand and DE filters) or clean you filter cartridge, Pressure can rise very rapidly during this period. Keep a close watch on your pressure!

10. Retest the water chemistry daily.

This article courtesy of www.everything4pools.com

If you can't repair the problem yourself, contact a local pool professional for assistance.

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Did you find this information helpful? - Tips are received with humble gratitude. Tips are quite unnecessary yet much appreciated

Pool Leaks

If you routinely need to add more than two inch of water to your pool per week, you may have a leak.Your pool will lose some water naturally to evaporation, some to splash out and some to backwashing you filter. 

Check the obvious first:

Are there any leaks at the equipment pad? Look closely at the filter, pump, heater and the pipe valves. Check the ground for moisture. Are there any wet areas around the pool? Walk around the pool, and by the pool and the equipment. Check for wet soil and sunken or eroding areas. Do you have a vinyl liner pool? Look for tears or separations around all the fittings, skimmers, returns, cleaner line, lights, steps and the corners.

Checking to see if you have a leak:

If you suspect your pool is leaking, there are several ways to check. Try one of these approaches:

• Mark the water level of the pool at the skimmer. Useing a peice of tape or grease pencil to mark the water level . Check the mark 24 hours later. Your pool should lose no more than 1/4 inch per day. Otherwise, a leak is indicated.

• The bucket test: Place a bucket filled with pool water on a pool step (weight it with a rock or brick). Mark the water level on both the inside and the outside of the bucket. Make sure the water levels are the same inside the bucket as the pool water level outside the bucket. Check the mark 24 hours later. If there's a greater drop in the line on the outside of the bucket, a leak in the pool is indicated. This test needs to be conducted with the pump on, then again with the pump off.

Determining the Location of the Leak:

If you determine that your pool is losing water, turn off the filtration system and note where the water stops dropping. Vinyl Liner pools need to have water in them at all times! Stop this test if you have a liner pool and the water level is dropping rapidly. Start adding water and call a pool professional.

• If the water stops at the bottom of skimmer opening, the leak is probably in the skimmer or filtration system (Including the pipes).
• If the water stops at the light, the leak is probably at the light housing.
• If the water drops below the light, then there may be a leak in the drain at the bottom the pool.

If you suspect you have a leak in the filtration system:

• If you see air bubbles in the return lines water when the pool's pump is running,  there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.

          Is the pump basket lid on tight?

        Is the lid  o-ring lubed and in good condition?

• If the pool is losing more water while the pump is running, the leak is on the return line side of the system.

        Check the waste or backwash line for running water?

If you suspect you have a leak in the Skimmer, light, liner:

If you see something that looks like a crack,gap or tear. 

Using a dye test solution or some of your pH indicator test reagent, drop near it with pump shut off and water still. See if the dye is sucked into the crack,gap or tear.

Fixing leaks:

Skimmer Leaks

• The most common leak is a separation between the plastic skimmer and the concrete pool. This is easily fixed with  pool putty.

Light Leaks

• Often the conduit pipe will come apart, break or separate from the niche. This is difficult to patch. There are various methods to patch a bad conduit connection.  A two part epoxy that dries hard, with putty, silicone or caulk are ways to fix this problem.

Liner Leaks

• Simply, patch it with a vinyl liner patch kit. If underwater, wet patch kit

Many leaks are not detectable using the suggestions above. Now it's time to call a proffesional!

Thanks to state-of-the-art technology, most pool or spa leaks can be found and repaired without major disruption. Some of the methods used are:

• Compressed air is used to pressurize a pipe. The air displaces the water in the pipe until it reaches the leak, at which point bubbles escape from the hole to reveal the problem area. Or, where a pipe fails to maintain a constant air pressure, a leak exists.
• Special television camera that is snaked through plumbing pipes to spot leaks.
• By injecting air into a pipe, then listening electronically for sounds of air escaping with a supersensitive microphone.

You should expect to pay about $175 to $250 for high-tech leak detection, depending upon the location and complexity of the problem. Repairs are extra.

This article courtesy of www.everything4pools.com

If you can't repair the problem yourself, contact a local pool professional for assistance.

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Did you find this information helpful? - Tips are received with humble gratitude. Tips are quite unnecessary yet much appreciated