Kryptonite's MySpace Blog |

MySpace.com | rss | sign in

Kryptonite

Last Updated: 1/7/2010

Send Message
Instant Message
Email to a Friend
Subscribe

Gender: Male
Status: Single
Sign: Pisces

City: Ellisville
State: Missouri
Country: US

Blog Archive

[Older Newer]

/ /

Monday, March 16, 2009

1969 BOSS 429 Mustang Auction

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlZoK9fG8aE

2:18 AM

0 Comments

(Add Comment) |

0 Kudos

Translate

Thursday, June 05, 2008

Musty Smelling Leaky S-197
Current mood:

annoyed
Category: Automotive

This is a follow up post to a problem of having a musty smell in '05-'08 Mustang's, it seems that many people are having similar problems with leaking. The exact leaking that is causing this musty smell is also causing many "electrical problems" with others. I'm posting this to hopefully reach a wider audience. Everyone should be checking there cars for this problem before it gets out of hand. Like mentioned below your exterior carpet does not have to be wet. Most people feel it under the carpet in the padding (look below at Hyproman's directions)

This is definitely a serious problem... When I searched another Forum I came up with these examples:

-Mot250 wrote: found I have a leak today after a heavy rain. Probably coming in around the same area, above the interior fuse box behind the passenger side kick panel. I'll have a closer look as soon as I can. The only electrical glitch was a weird tail light thing. The passenger side center light in the tail light came on and would not turn off. Bright as though braking or signaling. Car off and all light switches off and that light would stay lit. I had to disconnect the pigtail to keep it from staying lit all day while at work.
If it persists before I can get it checked out, I'll pull the entire assembly and yank that bulb when I get home

-Torch Vert wrote:I went through dealer hell with a similar problem. (same symptoms, electrical system going "berserk" after heavy rain) I found there was water sneaking in above the fuse panel in the passenger side kick panel. Five trips to the dealership.

-Mark wrote: After a heavy down pour the track re opened but had some standing water in places. It was NOT over 1 inch in depth and it was only lightly raining when my instructor and I did 5 SLOW laps with 15 other cars. The electrical system went berserk and ONLY with my car: The gas gage showed empty (it was full) oil pressure showed zero, park brake light was on, traction light was on, windows would not come back up, but engine ran normal, no turn signals, no clock on radio

-Wjbiv wrote: Next week my GT will go in for the second time for a severe rain leak into the passenger-side foot-wells. We've had two unseasonably heavy rains in the past couple weeks, and each of them has caused a flood in both the front and rear passenger side foot-wells. This flooding is odd, in that little sign of leaking is visible on the surface of the carpet. The water seems to be coming in from below and saturating the padding beneath the carpeting. In the first trip to service they indicated that they resealed with windshield, cowl, and heater core after discovering some leaking there. If true, I must have additional leaks, 'cause with the last rains it all happened again, just as bad as before.There appears to be something going on in the outboard sidewall in the front foot-well. Behind the plastic trim panel things get noticeably wet, especially around the rubber grommet sealing the cabling coming in from the passenger door. Is it possible that water is finding its way inside that area of the body/fender and flowing in through the various bolt-holes and other openings?

67 and 05 ragtops wrote: I have the same water issues. I have even had the door locks and head lights do a freaky thing when they got wet.

-AirForceGeorge wrote: Had electrical problems with taillight

-Hyproman wrote: On the passenger-side, there is a square door just to the front of the car door, a few inches up from the floor carpeting. Pull of the door, and you will see a black box, and some wiring/conduits. Reach inside this cavity, and down until you find the carpeting ends. Reach UNDER the carpeting, and you will find the spongy stuff that's laid out under the carpeting. Follow this spongy material (and the metal frame) down to where the frame levels out on the floor.
When I do this, the sponge at the end of my fingers is pretty saturated, even a day or two after a rain storm. I have been to 2 different dealers with no good fixes. I am very interested to see how many other people have this problem, and just don't know it. I've found that this stuff can be wet, even if the carpeting doesn't appear wet.

-I felt my problem on the left (driver) side. I pulled the carpeting back, i had to bend it under the clutch and I ran my hand down to the exact same point and the padding was soaked! No wonder my car smells like mildew.

Thanks to all of those that answered my post and helped me diagnose my exact problem! Since this is obviously a really big problem. Since this is a problem that can cause electrical malfunction, rust, corrosion, potentially hazardous mold and mildew spores among other things I believe something has to be done about this very soon.

Plz tell other owners about this problem
There might be a forth coming recall on this!

Thanx for viewing this post
Steve'O

10:33 AM

0 Comments

(Add Comment) |

0 Kudos

Translate

Sunday, March 02, 2008

If u have a 2005+ S197 GT u might need this lil fix
Current mood:

creative
Category: Automotive

..>..>..>..>..>..>..>..>..>..>..>..>..tr>..table>

9:11 PM

3 Comments

(Add Comment) |

3 Kudos

Translate


	Sorry about the other one, it was the wrong link This one works! OK, I don’t know whats going on with this ,but (copy and paste this link if it still not working let me know! link:"http://autobglo.com/archives/"> this link shows how to fix a problem with all GT S-197 Throttle response it has to be fixed this way! "a tune can’t fix this!" thanx, Kryptonite

Friday, February 29, 2008

2005-2008 S197 RECALL
Current mood:

enlightened
Category: Automotive

THERE IS A SILENT RECALL ON GOING with the pass Air Bags

CHECK YOUR "VIN" HERE TO SEE IF UR IN THE RECALL

7:48 AM

0 Comments

(Add Comment) |

0 Kudos

Translate

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Who Is Actually Making The Filters?
Current mood:

aggravated
Category: Automotive

Who Is Actually Making The Filters?

There ae over 100 different brands/models of filters that are listed as FL-820S equivalents. There are not 100 differnt manufacturers. I am aware of the following manufactuers that are significant US Suppliers:
Champion Laboratories Inc., A UCI Company

Purolator Filters NA LLC

Honeywell (Fram)

Cummins (Fleetguard)

Affinia Group Inc. (Wix)

Clarcor Inc (Baldwin / Hastings / Casite)

Denso Sales Ca., Inc.

Here is my best guess at who manufactures the FL-820S alternates I have in my possession:

Purolator

Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820

Motorcraft FL-820S

Purolator PureOne PL24651

Purolator Premium Plus L24651

Pep Boys ProLine PPL-24651

Advance Auto AA2

Champion Laboratories'

Ford OE filter (2007 Ford Fusion V-6)

Wal*Mart ST2

STP S2

ACDelco PF1250

Bosch 3410

Mobil 1 M1-210

K&N HP-2010

Fram

Fram PH2

Fram TG2

Fleetguard (Cummins)

Fleetguard LF16002

Fleetguard LF3681

Affinia Group Inc (Wix)

Motorcraft MFL-820 (? Made in Mexico)

Wix 51372

Clarcor Corp.

Hastings LF110

Donaldson

Donaldson P550965 (made in Mexico)

Amsoil EaO11 (made in Mexico)

Denso

Denso 150-1014 (made in Japan)

Unknown Chinese Manufacturer

C.G.Enterprises Viper 2 Oil Filter

Since it is apparent that filter manufacturers share parts and possibly filter production, I am not sure it is meaningful who actually builds a particalur brand of filter. There are significant differences in the filters produced for different marketing organizations by any given manufacturer (see the Purolator produced filters for examples of variations in quality of filters produced by the same supplier). I believe you have to trust the "brand" when chossing a filter. I hope (expect) that Motorcraft will maintain the same specifications no matter which manufacturer actually makes the FL-820S Oil Filters. --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> -->"''"-->

Bottom Line - What Filter Do I Plan To Use? --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> -->"''"-->

What filter should you use for your Ford? That is your choice. Here is how I see it -

The import things to consider are:

Quality of construction (no matter how good the specs, if it is built poorly, stay away)

Micron rating. If the filter lets particles above a certain size through, then excessive engine wear may result. If it filters out particles smaller than necessary, then the filter will load up quickly and go into the bypass mode too soon (effectively giving you no filter at all)

Filtering efficiency. The higher the better, assuming you have the correct micron rating.

Filter capacity. The more contaminants the filter can hold the better.

Bypass Valve Setting. A higher setting is good unless the filter restricts flow.

Filter Flow Capacity - the higher the better.

Anti-Drain Back Valve Material – Silicone is the preferred choice. Silicone will remain flexible for a much longer time than the nitrile rubber used in the cheaper filters. Staying flexible is key to providing a good seal throughout the life of the oil filter.

Bypass Valve Location – Locating the relief valve at the base end of the filter is desirable. For a filter with a dome end relief valve, when the valve is open, oil passes over the dirty side of the filter and then through the valve. This may result in the oil picking up contaminants from the dirty side of the filter and carrying them back into the engine. The FL-820S design is at the base end of the filter. For this filter, when the relief valve is in operation, oil flows directly from the filter intake to the filter outlet without passing over the dirty side of the media. The "Ford" Logo Filters were the only "quality" FL-820S equivalent filters evaluated so far with the relief valve at the bottom. The cheaper Champion Labs filters had an undesirable combination anti-drain back and relief valve located at the bottom. I would like more information on the importance of the relief valve location. Of all the filters examined (including filters from Nissan, Toyota, and New Holland), the "Ford" fitlers and the Wix 51334 filter (a Honda Civic filter) are the only filters with a base end relief valve. I know this is a more expensive location, but is it really that important? Ford must think so, at least for the FL-820S applications. Why don't any other manufacturers agree?

Here is how I rate the filters I have evaluated (regardless of cost) -

Group 1 (My personal favorites)

Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820

Motorcraft FL-820S

Ford OE Filter

Purolator PureOne PL24651

Group 2 (Filters I might use)

Fleetguard LF16002

Denso 150-1014

Amsoil Ea011

Wix 51372

Mobil 1 M1-210

K&N HP-2010

Group 3 (Filters I'd rather not use)

Donaldson P550965

Motorcraft MFL-820

Bosch 3410

Purolator Premium Plus L24651

Fleetguard LF3681

Hastings LF110 (aka Baldwin B329 / Casite CF-110)

Group 4 (Filters I won't use)

Pro-Tec 159

Pep Boys ProLine PPL-24651

C.G.Enterprises Viper 2 Oil Filter

Advance Auto Totalgrip AA2

Fram TG2

Fram PH2

Walmart ST2

STP S2

ACDelco PF1250

Whether price is a major factor or not, the Motorcraft FL820S Filter is near the top of my list for a filter to be used on a Ford product. Motorcraft does not claim the FL-820S has a particularly good efficiency rating, but to my eye the filter material is the same type as the Purolator PL24651 Filter or any of the "premium" filters with the cellulose/synthetic media. The Ford Racing Filter is clearley a "better" version of the FL-820S, but I don't think it is enough better to justify the much higher cost - at least for a properly maintained stock street vehicle. The Mexican produced Motorcraft MFL-820 is equivalent in most ways to the standard FL-820 filter. It differs in some trival ways and in some important ways. The filter media appears to be the same and there is more of it. The inner core support is of a stronger type. The relief valve is on the bottom and silimilar to the valve in the Wix 51334 Honda filter. The only negative for the MFL-820 is the nitrile anti-drain back valve. It is similar to the valve used in the cheaper WIX FL-820 equivalents (like the Pro-Tec 159). I've always tended to stick with OEM Filters. However, many of the non-Ford/Motorcraft filters are worthy of consideration. The Amsoil filter has good published specs, but it is very pricey, and it's construction is very different. The Fleetguard LF16002 appears to use the same media as the Amsoil EaO11 and it uses more of it, so if you like the Amsoil media and can live with the LF16002's nitrile ADBV, then the LF16002 is a filter worth considering. If the location of the relief valve does not worry you, then the Purolaor PureOne appears to be a very good filter. The Denso 150-1014, Wix 51372, Mobil 1 M210, and K&N HP-2010 filters appear to be decent filters, but all have the relief valve on the dome end, and are pricey in comparison to the FL-820S.

The information in my discussion only applies to the FL-820S equivalents. Other filters types may differ significantly.

Just how important is the installing a quality oil filter to maximizing the life of an engine? I believe the oil filter is no better than fourth in terms of importance to maximizing engine life. The most important maintenance item is the air filter, followed by oil quality, and the PCV system. The primary path of contamination into your engine is the air intake system. An engine takes in tremendous volumes of air (over 1300 cubic feet of air per gallon of gasoline). A significant portion of the contamination in the oil enters the engine via the air intake system. It is clear that stopping the contamination at the source is more efficient that trying to filter it out of the oil. A good quality oil is important because it both lubricates and cools an engine. An oil that breaks down won't protect your engine, no matter how well it is filtered. The PCV system is important because it represents a secondary path for contamination to enter an engine. It is also is vital to prevent the build up of contamination in the oil.

--> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> -->"''"-->

Looking for a Larger Filter to Replace the FL-820S? --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> --> -->"''"-->

Some people might like replacing the standard FL-820S Filter with a larger filter. There are filters with threads and base gaskets that match the FL-820S, and as long as there is room around the filter, they should work. Just make sure you get one with a good anti-drain back valve.

I got most of this list off the internet. I have not personally verified that the filters will fit.

Oversized Filter List (Fitment Not Tested) :

Baldwin B281 - Height 5 9/32"; OD 3.75" Bypass Valve Setting 20 psi

Carquest 85087

Donaldson P553315 and P550166 - Height 5"; Bypass Valve Setting 17-20psi

Fleetguard LF3315 - Height - 4.37"; OD - 3.43; Bypass Valve Setting 17.4; Flow Rating 11.1gpm @ 4.35 psid; Filter efficiency - 30u=55% / 62u= 98%

Purolator L30238 - Height 5.28"; OD 3.76"; Bypass Valve Setting 20psi

Wix 51087 - Height 5.477"; OD 3.661"; 24 Micron Nominal Rating; Bypass Valve Setting 19psi; Flow Rating 11-13 GPM

Wix 51592 - Height 5.214"; OD 3.663"; 18 Micron Nominal Rating; Bypass Valve Setting 18-20psi; Flow Rating 11-13 GPM

Hastings LF444 - Bypass Valve Setting 20psi

Mak MK549 - Height 5.433"; OD 3.7"

It appears to me that many of these larger filters are intended for use on heavy equipment or farm tractors.

3:35 PM

1 Comments

(Add Comment) |

2 Kudos

Translate

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Filter Comparisons
Current mood:

pleased
Category: Automotive

..> ..>

Filter Comparisons

..> ..>

..>..>

I am not an oil filter specialist. I am not selling oil filters. I don't have the facilities to test oil filters per SAE methods. I am just an ordinary consumer who wants to determine the best filter to use on the various Ford products owned by the members of my family and myself. There are many alternatives to the standard Motorcraft FL-820S Oil Filter available. Using the resources available to me, I am trying to determine if there is a good reason to pick one of the alternatives.

Cutting oil filters apart is probably not the best or most scientific method for comparing oil filters, but it is something I can do with the resources available to me. I plan to compare as many FL-820S equivalents as possible.

The information presented here is my opinion. If the test methods don't meet your standards, I understand. Feel free to complain. I'd love to hear suggestions on how to better evaluate the various filters. Some suppliers readily provide information useful to picking a filter (Champion Labs freely provides information). Other suppliers seem reluctant to tell you anything (AC Delco is very closed mouth). Most suppliers fall between the extremes. Unfortunately, the most import information, the filter efficiency and filter capacity, is either not available, or not presented in a consistent manner. I don't have a way to measure these values. Even when a manufacturer provides filter efficiency information, they usually don't provide everything you need to know (quoting a 98% efficiency without reporting the applicable micron rating is not particularly useful). Most of the specification quoted in ads or on the filter carton seem to have been "filtered" to remove the most important content. Everyone likes to compare their filter to the "leading national brand." I am guessing the "leading national brand" is the bottom quality Fram filter, but this is never explicitly stated. But even Fram compares their more expensive filters to their bottom quality filter, so I suppose the Fram PH2 is fair game for comparisons. And usually, when manufacturers make statements about their filter (comparing it to the leading national brand), they are not actually comparing their FL-820S equivalent to a Fram PH2 (or whatever). They are comparing another filter they make to a different Fram filter. I think most comparisons are between FL-1A equivalents and Fram PH-8A Fitlers.

Remember - almost all filter manufacturers claim to meet the vehicle manufacturers specifications. I wish I had a copy of those specifications. It seems hard to believe that they could all meet the same specs and still be so different.

What makes for a good filter for your Ford?

Filter media material. Most companies use either plain cellulose (i.e., paper), or cellulose reinforced with synthetic fibers (whatever they are). The media is designed to trap particles of a certain size or larger. Ford rates the FL-820S Filter at 20 microns. Others rate their equivalent at as small as 10 microns. If the filter traps very small particles, it is possible that it will load up very quickly and go into bypass mode before it is changed, effectively giving you no filter at all. Assuming your filter has enough capacity, the smaller the micron rating the better, at least as far as maximizing engine life is concerned. I would not consider a filter with a micron rating greater than 20 microns. Smaller micron ratings may reduce the filters flow rate.

Surface area of media. More is better, as far as flow capacity and contaminant holding capacity are concerned.

Thickness of media. A thicker media is likely to be more efficient at removing contaminants (for a given media material), and be able to hold more contaminants. However, a thicker media is also likely to provide more resistance and reduce the flow through a given area of media. Very thin media might be easily damaged.

Filter media retainer. I call this the filter element assembly. All but the cheapest filters use metal end caps and have the filter media "potted" into the end caps. All but the cheapest filters include an inner support (filter core) made of perforated metal to keep the filter media from collapsing. The cheaper filters sometimes use paper or fabric end caps and plastic moldings for the inner support. I prefer the filter media potted into metal end caps and the perforated metal inner support.

Filter element retainer. Filters include either a leaf spring or coil spring between the filter element and the top of the can. This is used to hold the filter parts tightly to the base. Either solution is acceptable to me.

Anti-drain back valve. Ford modular engines need a good anti-drain back valve (ADBV). If the anti-drain back valve does not function properly, oil will drain out of the engine when it is off, and it will take a few moments for the oil to begin to flow to the chain tensioners and overhead lifters when it is restarted. This can at result in the annoying clatter of the camshaft drive chains and, possibly, excessive wear. The Motorcraft filters use a silicone anti-drain back valve. The silicone valves are more resistant to age hardening than the nitrile (rubber) valves used in some cheap filters. </o:p>

Bypass (pressure relief) valve. Ford prefers to have the bypass valve at the base end of the filter. Many filter manufacturers prefer to place it at the dome end. The dome end location is cheaper and easier to manufacture. However, for filters with dome end bypass valves, if the filter goes into bypass mode, the oil will circulate past the dirty side of the filter before passing through the bypass valve, and back into the engine. I believe that this may result in the oil picking up additional contaminants and returning them to engine (besides not having been filtered at all). I prefer base end bypass valves. It is also important to have a bypass valve that opens at the correct pressure differential.

Filter can. You need a strong filter can to prevent ballooning of the filter. Some manufacturer's include an anti-slip coating on the can. Others include flats or flutes so you can use a cap end wrench. And at least one includes a hex nut on the cap, so you can use a standard wrench or socket. I usually install filters by hand, and use either a cap wrench or strap wrench to remove them. Having a feature on the end so you can use a cap wrench or a standard wrench is an advantage for some Ford models where the filter is in a confined space that makes it difficult to use a strap wrench.

Base. The base needs to be strong and have the proper threads (M22-1.5 for Fords that use the FL-820S). I feel you should have at least 3 full threads.

Base gasket. The gasket needs to be of the proper size. I prefer gaskets that are tightly bonded to the filter base. In the past I have had gaskets stick to the filter adapter on the engine. In some cases, the adapter is not easy to see or reach. Leaving an extra gasket behind is a good way to get a leak. Some of the premium filters include lubricated gaskets (Teflon, or graphite). This is a nice feature since it makes the filter easier to remove.

3:19 PM

1 Comments

(Add Comment) |

0 Kudos

Translate

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Is ur filter really better than the others??
Category: Automotive

AC Delco Duraguard PF60

This filter is very much like the Deutsch unit, which is similar to the Bosch filter (manufactured by Champion Laboratories). It has the Bosch cartridge design, but uses a different filter element (similar to other AC Delco elements). Like the Deutsch filter, the backplate has 8 round inlet holes with one larger than the others. The AC Delco catalog lists the PF56 as an equivalent filter, but I could not find it.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$6
Cartridge Length	3.925 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.685 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.625 inches
Cartridge Pleats	55
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel, with bypass and anti-drain-back valves
Anti-Drain-back Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (bottom of cartridge)
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (top of cartridge)
Element Type	Paper media, glued seam
Element Length	54.0 inches
Element Width	3.750 inches
Element Surface Area	202.5 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.013 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.108 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

Bosch 72150

I believe that Champion Laboratories is the manufacturer of all American-made Bosch filters. If the filter is stamped with "Made in U.S.A.", then it is likely a Champion Labs filter. They seem to make some of the German OEM filters as well. I kept seeing this unit's filter cartridge in other units, but this may just be a design copy.

This filter has one of the higher surface areas of the group and has a stronger case. A common theme with these filters is to have the anti-drainback valve built into the bottom of the filter cartridge with the bypass valve built into the top. Rather than use a diaphragm-type anti-drainback valve, these filters use spring loaded steel valve with a nitrile seal. This is probably the best anti-drainback valve design I have seen, but it does take up quite a bit of room inside the cartridge, which forces the element pleats to be shallow. The cartridge is held in place by a leaf spring-type spacer. To make a positive seal to the backplate, a rubber o-ring is used at the base of the cartridge. The backplate has four large "D"-shaped holes for the oil inlet.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$?
Cartridge Length	3.950 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.700 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.625 inches
Cartridge Pleats	76
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel, with bypass and anti-drainback valves
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (bottom of cartridge)
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (top of cartridge)
Element Type	Paper media, glued seam
Element Length	74.0 inches
Element Width	3.750 inches
Element Surface Area	277.5 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.014 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.118 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

Deutsch D484

Like the Ford 5.0L Deutsch filter, this filter is manufactured by Champion Laboratories. It is similar in construction to the AC Delco, the American-made Bosch, and the other Champion filters.

Although most of the dimensions were the same as the AC Delco, the Deutsch uses a different filter element, which has more pleats (and more surface area). Like the AC Delco filter, the backplate has 8 round inlet holes with one larger than the others.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$6
Cartridge Length	3.925 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.700 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.625 inches
Cartridge Pleats	61
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel, with bypass and anti-drainback valves
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (bottom of cartridge)
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (top of cartridge)
Element Type	Paper media, glued seam
Element Length	59.5 inches
Element Width	3.750 inches
Element Surface Area	223.0 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.013 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.108 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

Fram Extra Guard PH2870A

Well, what can I say? It's a Fram in every way, shape, and form.

It has the usual cardboard-end-capped cartridge with the lowest surface area of the group (172.5sqin). Along with the spring-loaded plastic bypass valve, it has the nitrile rubber diaphragm that seals rough metal to cardboard. I also noticed that there was very little room between the bottom cartridge end cap and the filter can. It looks as though it might restrict oil flow between the backplate and the outside of the element, but I imagine that the oil flow would probably push the cardboard out of the way. The backplate has 8 very small holes for the oil inlet, which may restrict flow somewhat.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$?
Cartridge Length	3.925 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.625 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.375 inches
Cartridge Pleats	40
Cartridge End Cap Type	Cardboard
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Spring loaded plastic
Bypass Valve Type	Nitrile rubber diaphragm
Element Type	Paper media, metal seam
Element Length	44.5 inches
Element Width	3.875 inches
Element Surface Area	172.5 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.015 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.110 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

Mahle OC49

This filter has similarities with the Champion Labs unit, but is different enough to lead me to believe that it is not the same manufacturer. The similarities are that is has the spring loaded anti-drainback and bypass valves built into the cartridge end caps. The differences are that the bypass valve has no steel plate (it is a thick piece of spring-loaded rubber) and the anti-drainback valve has a wider steel plate than the Bosch. Also, a coil spring spacer is used instead of the leaf spring and the filter element has a metal seam instead of a glued one. In my opinion, these differences do not make this filter better or worse; I just pointed them out to show that it is definitely not the same manufacturing process.

The filter element is thin and fairly stiff, but quite strong and has one of the largest element surface areas of the group. The glue used to attach the end caps to the element is unlike any other I have seen. Rather than a gooey-flexible type, this stuff is hard and brittle. Neither better nor worse...just different. One striking aspect of this filter is the precise spacing of the pleats. While not especially relevant, it shows an attention to detail. The filter case is definitely one of the strongest and the backplate has 6 medium-sized oil inlet holes, for plenty of flow.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$?
Cartridge Length	3.710 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.750 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.500 inches
Cartridge Pleats	64
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel, with bypass and anti-drainback valves
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (bottom of cartridge)
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded nitrile rubber (top of cartridge)
Element Type	Paper media, metal seam
Element Length	74 inches
Element Width	3.500 inches
Element Surface Area	259.0 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.018 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.132 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

Mann W719/5

This filter also has similarities to both the Champion Labs and the Mahle units. It has the usual Champion Labs bypass and anti-drainback valve locations and construction, but has a filter element similar to the Mahle unit. The inside diameter of this cartridge is smaller than the Champion Labs or Mahle, which allows deeper pleats and gives this filter the most surface area of the group (285sq-in). The cartridge spacer is a leaf spring-type, but of a unique design. The backplate looks just like the Champion Labs backplate, except that for some reason is it not welded or glued to the can. The can has some "hooks" that attach it to the backplate through the "D"-shaped inlet holes. After looking at it, I realized that this makes no difference in terms of sealing. The outside seal is made to the filter can and so any oil that gets between the backplate and the can ends up in the same place that it would if it went through the inlet holes. Also, this filter has the strongest can of the group.

This filter has "Made in Germany" stamped on the can, which may account for the differences from the American-made Bosch filter (which is manufactured by Champion Laboratories).

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$?
Cartridge Length	3.875 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.700 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.375 inches
Cartridge Pleats	59
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel, with bypass and anti-drainback valves
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (bottom of cartridge)
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal (top of cartridge)
Element Type	Paper media, glued seam
Element Length	76 inches
Element Width	3.750 inches
Element Surface Area	285.0 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.021 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.117 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

NAPA Gold 1342

I purchased this filter to get another example from the one of the better domestic oil filter manufacturers. Like the Ford 5.0L version, this filter is made by the Dana Corporation (Wix). It has all the usual Wix filter attributes. These include the two-piece filter cartridge with the metal-to-metal seal between the bypass valve and bottom cartridge end cap. The bypass valve is sealed to the backplate with the usual diaphragm-type anti-drainback valve. The filter element was Dana's usual material (strong) and has a surface area that is about average. The cartridge is held in place by a stiff coil spring spacer. One thing I noticed was that there was very little room between the bottom cartridge end cap and the filter can (like the Fram). It looks as though it might restrict oil flow between the backplate and the outside of the element.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$?
Cartridge Length	3.675 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.750 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.375 inches
Cartridge Pleats	49
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Nitrile rubber diaphragm
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal
Element Type	Paper media, glued seam
Element Length	62 inches
Element Width	3.500 inches
Element Surface Area	217.0 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.014 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.104 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

Purolator Premium Plus L20252

This filter is like most Purolators. It has steel end caps, but with the Champion-like bypass valve on the top of the cartridge. The anti-drainback valve is a typical nitrile rubber diaphragm type. The filter element has many shallow pleats, which results in a surface area (178sq-in) only slightly better than Fram. The inside of the cartridge has a lot of wasted space. It also has the typical Purolator assembly string.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$4
Cartridge Length	3.875 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.625 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.625 inches
Cartridge Pleats	50
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Nitrile rubber diaphragm
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal
Element Type	Paper media, metal seam
Element Length	47.5 inches
Element Width	3.750 inches
Element Surface Area	178.0 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.012 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.111 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

Purolator Pure One PL20252

This Purolator has the same construction as the Premium Plus, but with more pleats of the Pure One element. It also has a silicone rubber anti-drainback valve and a PTFE-treated gasket.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$6
Cartridge Length	3.675 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.750 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.375 inches
Cartridge Pleats	62
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Silicone rubber diaphragm
Bypass Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal
Element Type	Paper media, glued seam
Element Length	58.5 inches
Element Width	3.750 inches
Element Surface Area	219.5 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.012 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.111 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber, PTFE-treated

Volkswagen 034 115 561A

This filter has the same construction as the American-made Bosch filter (Champion Labs), and also appears to have the same filter element.

..>..> ..> ..>

Average Retail Price	$8
Cartridge Length	3.950 inches
Cartridge Outside Diameter	2.700 inches
Cartridge Inside Diameter	1.375 inches
Cartridge Pleats	75
Cartridge End Cap Type	Stamped steel
Anti-Drainback Valve Type	Spring loaded steel, nitrile seal
Bypass Valve Type	Nitrile rubber diaphragm
Element Type	Paper media, glued seam
Element Length	73 inches
Element Width	3.750 inches
Element Surface Area	274.0 square inches
Shell Thickness	0.014 inches
Backplate Thickness	0.118 inches
Gasket Type	Nitrile rubber

for more info go to this site: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilf...ilterstudy.html