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Peter Eikenberry Sr

Peter Eikenberry Sr


Last Updated: 11/27/2009

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Gender: Male
Status: Married
Age: 64
Sign: Aquarius

City: MCCHORD AFB
State: Washington
Country: US
Signup Date: 10/29/2008

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Tuesday, July 14, 2009 
A recent post on the iboats forum caught my eye: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=331857

ethanol in gas causing problems?
Quote:
"ETHANOL AND VAPOR LOCK

Short description:
When the engine compartment becomes hot either by climate or idling, and you use ethanol-blend gasoline it can cause excessive vapors in your fuel line and starve the engine of fuel. The engine can run poorly or stop and will not run until the fuel condenses.

THE PROBLEMS

Vapor Lock

Fuel containing 10% ethanol is called E10. If you have ethanol in your gas, you run the risk of creating vapor lock because of excess vapors.

Ethanol “boils” at 87ºF (at normal atmospheric pressure) and turns from a liquid to a gaseous state. By comparison, most automobiles have their fuel pump in the gas tank, so the whole system remains under pressure unlike boats whose fuel tanks are vented. In a closed system, the higher pressure raises the flash point of the ethanol reducing the amount of vapor that is produced. In addition, most automobile fuel lines are outside of the vehicle allowing them to stay cooler.

Since most boat fuel lines are in the enclosed space (sometimes even insulated) of the engine compartment, normal ventilation will not cool the fuel significantly enough to avoid the potential problems of vapor lock. Furthermore, since the fuel pump in a boat is mounted on the engine (versus a car where the pump resides in the tank) the action of the pump can reduce pressure in the tank to below atmospheric pressure and further reduce the flash point.

Boat engineers are aware of this problem and are reducing the likelihood of this occurring by reducing the suction required by the fuel pump, minimizing hose fittings and bends, and including a quality anti-siphon valve. In existing boats, fuel lines and filters should be kept as low in the boat as possible and tank vents should be cleaned and open.

Heat Soak

Most boats have “forced” ventilation. Air moves through the engine compartment when the boat moves forward. Heat soak happens after you have been at high RPM and then stop or drift on idle for a while. Because of heat soak the engine compartment will rise to a point where the ethanol will boil

THE CURE

To prevent vapor lock (i.e. boiling ethanol):

Make sure the engine compartment has adequate ventilation.
Relocate fuel lines to be low in the bilge. (The bilge is cooler because it is in direct contact with the water.)
Monitor the engine compartment temperature.
Add (or turn on) engine room blowers.
Keep the tank vent clean and unobstructed.
The above is full of misinformation.

Quote:
When the engine compartment becomes hot either by climate or idling, and you use ethanol-blend gasoline it can cause excessive vapors in your fuel line and starve the engine of fuel. The engine can run poorly or stop and will not run until the fuel condenses.
This occurs on any gasoline engine and is not caused by ethanol. Gasoline has a much lower vapor pressure than ethanol and will readily evaporate at room temperatures, let alone a hot engine compartment. Vapor lock is a common occurrence on carbureted engines and always has been since they started using gasoline in engine around the 1890's

Quote:
Fuel containing 10% ethanol is called E10. If you have ethanol in your gas, you run the risk of creating vapor lock because of excess vapors.
Ethanol was introduced many many years ago, in fact the Germans used pure ethanol in engines during world war II. In the 1970's during the so called "oil crisis" distributors (no oil companies) began putting ethanol into gasoline to save on oil and to reduce smog. If it was 10% it was by law to be called Gasohol. The USCG did a study in the early 80's of this and found that almost every pump they got gasoline from no matter where it was located had ehtnaol (actually ethyl alcohol) in it. So in 86 or 87 they, ABYC, SAE and NFPA got together and changed the requirements for marine fuel hoses to be more alcohol resistant.

But gas has had alcohol in it for many years, along with MTBE and other additives.

Quote:
Ethanol “boils” at 87ºF
Someone already addressed this issue.

Quote:
Furthermore, since the fuel pump in a boat is mounted on the engine (versus a car where the pump resides in the tank) the action of the pump can reduce pressure in the tank to below atmospheric pressure and further reduce the flash point.
It is true that putting th fuel pump in the tank reduces the chance of vapor lock. But putting the pump in the tank also pressurizes the full length of the fuel line and any leak would spray all over the inside of the boat. Plus that a leak in a pressurized system would drain the entire contents of the fuel tank.

So pumps are required to be on the engine. The pump sucks fuel to the engine. If you have a hole in the fuel line or fittings, it sucks air and the engine stops. Very little fuel leaks into the boat, if any at all.

Quote:
Boat engineers are aware of this problem and are reducing the likelihood of this occurring by reducing the suction required by the fuel pump, minimizing hose fittings and bends, and including a quality anti-siphon valve. In existing boats, fuel lines and filters should be kept as low in the boat as possible and tank vents should be cleaned and open.
Partly true partly false. Reducing the number of fittings and bends does reduce the possibility of leaks. Most fuel leaks are at fittings. It is a myth that anti-siphon is required on all boats. Anti-siphon valves can be eliminated entirely simply by mounting the tank fuel outlet lower than the fuel inlet on the engine. The USCG only requires an anti-siphon valve if the fuel outlet on the tank is level with or higher than the fuel inlet on the engine. That is why fuel tanks and lines are kept as low as possible.

Tanks are vented to prevent pressure from building in the tank. The recent EPA initiative to have pressurized systems in boats failed for that very reason. Having a pressurized system can turn a boat into a bomb.

Quote:
Most boats have “forced” ventilation. Air moves through the engine compartment when the boat moves forward. Heat soak happens after you have been at high RPM and then stop or drift on idle for a while. Because of heat soak the engine compartment will rise to a point where the ethanol will boil

Forced ventilation on boats is required for only one reason, to keep any fuel vapors in the engine compartment from every reaching the lower explosive limit (LEL) which is the point at which vapors ignite. Studys done by ABYC and the EPA have shown that on an operating engine with natural ventilation (blower not running) the temperature rarely exceeds 130 deg F. Even in Florida where they did the research. However, ABYC and others have recommended that engine ventilation be over sized, simply because newer engines require more air to run efficiently and not produce as much carbon monoxide.

Quote:
Make sure the engine compartment has adequate ventilation.
Relocate fuel lines to be low in the bilge. (The bilge is cooler because it is in direct contact with the water.)
Monitor the engine compartment temperature.
Add (or turn on) engine room blowers.
Keep the tank vent clean and unobstructed
All of this is good advice but for other reasons.

Carbureted engine, especially in warm climates have always been notoriuos for vapor lock. Engines with fuel injection and electronic control modules have almost eliminated vapor lock. Putting the pump in the tanks would further help the vapor lock issue but is dangerous on a boat with out special precautions being taking.

Mastercraft a ctually has such a system that was ok'ed by the Coast Guard about 10 years ago. But they had to use special fuel hose and components, and make fuel lines as short as possible and install alarms that would warm of any problems or leaks. All which made the complete engien fuel system package a lot more expensive than the conventional setup. As far as I know they have not had any significant problems, except the cost of repairs is much higher because it is one of those "no owner serviceable parts" deals. The Coast Guard required it to be factory or dealer serviced.

!0% ethanol is very common and has been for years. Seen more often today is E15 or 15% ethanol. The EPA is considering E85 which would be 85% ethanol. All of these are bad on boat engines, not because they cause vapor lock. They are bad because they cause serious deterioration of fuel system components.

Here is an article I wrote on ethanol several years ago. http://newboatbuilders.com/docs/Ethanol.pdf


I might add, I have since done further research into this.  Ethanol does raise the Reid Vapor Pressure of gasoline about 1%. That would seem to support the posters argument, however, the fuel manufacturers add other compunds that lower the RVP.  The US EPA sets maximum RVP limits for gasoline in the US which cannot be exceeded. So any additives such as oxygenates (ethanol is one, MTBE is another) cannot raise the RVP more than the EPA standard.  The EPA is also looking at further lowering the RVP. The lower the RVP the lower the evaporative emmissions. Also an added benefit is less chance of vapor lock.

__________________
Peter Eikenberry
Monday, June 22, 2009 

COMMON MYTHS ABOUT BOATING AND BOAT BUILDING

 
All of the following are statements I have heard people say, or I seen in print.  It always amazes me how seemingly competent people can continue to pass these on.  It also amazes me that boat owners don’t take the time to check the Internet or read books to find out the facts.  I have even heard professional marine surveyors and repairers say some of these things.
 
Belief: Styrofoam flotation is banned by the Coast Guard.
 
Not true:  Any means can be used to achieve the flotation requirements.  The Coast Guard requirement says that if you use foam and the foam is exposed to gasoline, oils or other chemicals that would degrade it, it must be resistant to these substances.  Styrofoam is not.  However, you can use Styrofoam anywhere it isn’t exposed to these, or anywhere if the foam is encased.
 
Foam isn’t even required. It just happens to be the easiest and most convenient solution.
 
Belief: The Coast Guard requires Battery Boxes (or ABYC does)
Note:
1. ABYC means American Boat and Yacht Council. http://www.abycinc.org
2. NFPA means National Fire Protection Association http://www.nfpa.org
3. CFR means Code of Federal Regulations
 
Not true:
Sec. 183.420  Batteries.

(a) Each installed battery must not move more than one inch in any direction when a pulling force of 90 pounds or twice the battery weight, whichever is less, is applied through the center of gravity of the battery as follows:

(1) Vertically for a duration of one minute.
(2) Horizontally and parallel to the boat's center line for a duration of one minute fore and one minute aft.
(3) Horizontally and perpendicular to the boat's center line for a duration of one minute to starboard and one minute to port.
 (b) Each battery must be installed so that metallic objects cannot come in contact with the ungrounded battery terminals.
 (c) Each metallic fuel line and fuel system component within 12 inches and above the horizontal plane of the battery top surface as installed must be shielded with dielectric material.
(d) Each battery must not be directly above or below a fuel tank, fuel filter, or fitting in a fuel line.
(e) A vent system or other means must be provided to permit the discharge from the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery.
(f) [Reserved]
(g) Each battery terminal connector must not depend on spring tension for its mechanical connection to the terminal.

Notice, it does not say how the battery should be constrained or how to prevent inadvertent contact by shielding it.  A common method is to put the battery in a ventilated box.  However, the Coast Guard does not require a box.  The battery may be held with a strap or clamps and it can be shielded with boots on the terminals.  It can also be in a tray that keeps it from moving and will hold any spillage.

Here is the NFPA wording for batteries. It does not say they have to be in a battery box. It allows for other means of compliance.

NFPA 302 says:  in 302-7.3

“A vent system or other means shall be provided to allow the discharge from the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery. Battery boxes with a cover that forms a pocket over the battery shall be vented.”

“Batteries shall be secured to provide immobilization to the extent practicable.”

“Batteries shall be located in a liquid tight tray or battery box of adequate capacity to retain normal spillage or boilover of electrolytes. The tray shall be constructed of or lined with materials resistant to deterioration by the electrolytes.”

“A non conductive, perforated cover or other means shall be provided to prevent accidental shorting of the ungrounded battery terminals and cell conductors.”

ABYC says similar things.  Standards for batteries are found in ABYC E-10.  Nowhere does it say they must be in a battery box, and it provides alternative means to comply.  Obviously the easiest way of meeting these requirements is a battery box, but it is not required and it is not a regulation.

Belief: Do it yourself AC wiring
It is now illegal to use ROMEX or solid core electrical wire in boats – Many older boats are grandfathered provided it was wired that way at the factory.  If you wired it in the last 10 years it must be done with stranded copper wire only.  NFPA 302 – ABYC – CFR 33

Not True: 
This is really misleading. It is not illegal to wire your boat yourself and the requirement for stranded wire is a manufacturer requirement. 33 CFR 183.425 says “a) Each conductor must be insulated, stranded copper.”  But, that regulation does not apply to boat owners.  The Federal regulation is a manufacturer requirement.  Both ABYC and NFPA require stranded copper wire but they are voluntary standards.  You will not pass a survey if you have Romex (house wire) or other solid core wire, but it is not illegal for the owner.  However, the owner would be advised to use boat cable.  Solid core wiring is not as flexible and is more prone to overheating than stranded wire.  Stranded copper wire is required on new boats because it is safer.

Belief:
Recreational Boats must be Coast Guard Approved (or certified).

Not True:
The Coast Guard does not certify or approve recreational boats.  The terms US Coast Guard Certified and US Coast Guard Approved have specific meanings defined by law.  Recreational boats are certified, but it is the builder or manufacturer who must certify that their boats meet the requirements of the Federal Regulations. See http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/certified.html for more information.

Belief: Your powerboat must have an Anti-Siphon valve:

Not True. 
The US Coast Guard requires an anti-siphon valve on inboard powered boats with permanently installed fuel systems, if the fuel tank is higher than the fuel inlet on the engine.  That means if the fuel line runs down hill from the tank to the engine, you need an anti-siphon valve.  If it runs uphill, that is the fuel inlet on the engine is higher than the tank, then you don’t need one.  These little valves cause a lot of problems and are always getting clogged by junk in the fuel.  If you don’t need it, get rid of it.  They are not required on outboard boats. ABYC standards do require them on outboards with permanently installed fuel systems, but only if the fuel system can siphon itself.

Belief: The Coast Guard (or ABYC) bans Stainless Steel tanks:

Not true:
The only tank material that is banned is ternplate, a tin-lead metal that is very prone to corrosion.  Stainless tanks are permitted.  However, they are very prone to a condition called crevice corrosion, so ABYC recommends they be 20 gallons or less with domed ends.  This minimizes the welds where they are most subject to corrosion.  They should be mounted where they will be dry and can be inspected on all sides.  Only 316L or 317L stainless should be used.  As with all the above, tank regulations are manufacturer requirements. 
Belief: It is illegal to exceed the horsepower rating on my boat:

Maybe;
Why maybe?  This is a gray area. The Federal regulation requires boat manufacturers to post a label with the recommended maximum safe horsepower for outboard powered boats.  It only applies to monohull boats under 20 feet in length.  That Horsepower is determined using a formula contained in the regulation.  Under Federal law a boat owner can put any size engine they want on their boat.  However, the catch is, some states have passed laws making it a violation to exceed the values on the capacity label.  Insurance companies also may cancel your insurance if they discover the boat has an engine that exceeds the horsepower rating.  If you have an accident and an investigation shows it was related to overpowering then the owner could be held liable in a law suit by the injured parties.

Belief:
I was cited by the police for not having a capacity label on my boat:

Not a requirement.
This is an easy one.  The label is a manufacturer requirement.  The boat owner is not responsible for the label and cannot be cited for violating Federal Law.  Only one state has a requirement for a capacity label, Pennsylvania, and they issue the label to boats that don’t have one.  So any law enforcement officer who cites a boat owner for no capacity label is misinformed and the ticket will be dismissed.  However, if your boat is missing the label you should try to get a new one from the boat manufacturer.  If the manufacturer is no longer in business, or the boat is so old the manufacturer no longer stocks the labels, you can have one made.  But first you need to know what the values were that were on the label.

Belief: ABYC requires Tinned wire
.

Not True
.  Tinned wire is recommended and can be used but it is not required by ABYC.

Belief: ABYC does not allow soldered connections:

Not true
.  ABYC allows soldered connections but they cannot be the sole means of support for the wire.

E-11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of support of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor

Belief: Galvanic Corrosion Vs Electrolysis:  

Which is the correct term? I still hear a lot of professionals, let alone amateurs, referring to Galvanic Corrosion as Electrolysis.  The differences are complex although they are similar processes.  But the correct term is galvanic corrosion.
Friday, June 19, 2009 
Several Years ago a person posted an article on a boating web site. It was called "Regulationss You Should Know" but was full of misleading and some plainly false information. I posted a rebuttal to it but for some reason it was never posted to the thread, but the original post was removed. I made a complete analysis of his post because I spent many years in the USCG Office of Boating Safety responding to this type of myth building. Unfortunately many of the things the author stated are passed on and believed not just by boat owners, but also by many marine professionals.

Recently this same information has shown up on some web sites.  It is the exact smae article.

Here is my respones to this post.

After reading the article, "Regulations you should know", I have to respond. This article disturbs me because it makes the claim that this is all the law. This entire document is a mix of regulation, accepted industry standards, state laws and common sense. Consumers confuse what is a law or regulation and what is not. But when a professional does this, it needs to be clarified.

Laws and regulations can be confusing in themselves because there are Federal laws and regulations, state laws, and local ordinances, which must be complied with by the owner and/or the boat manufacturer. Additionally, regulations for recreational boats and for commercial passenger carrying vessels are different and often confused.

Federal regulations for recreational boats are for the most part in Title 33 Code of Federal Regulations (CFR). The regulations are divided into requirements for operators of boats and requirements for manufacturers of boats. The operator requirements are Title 33 CFR Subchapter P. Part 173-178. The manufacturer requirements are in Title 33 CFR Parts 179-183. However, the flame arrestor, fire extinguisher, and operator ventilation requirements are in 46 CFR. This causes more confusion because generally 46 CFR applies to commercial vessels, not recreational boats. The Coast Guard is moving these to 33 CFR but how long that will take is anybody's guess. Manufacturer requirements do not apply to operators, but there are overlaps such as ventilation which is both an operator and manufacturer requirement. The regulations are further divided into those for recreational boats and those for passenger carrying vessels.

Also confusing the issue are accepted industry standards published by various organizations. These standards are not law. They are voluntary and almost always stricter than the law. Most of these standards are aimed at the boat manufacturers, repairers and service personnel, and not the boat owner, although the owner would be advised to follow them. Three of the best known of these organizations are the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC), The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). ABYC is the standard that boat builders follow, but many of their standards are derived in conjunction with SAE and NFPA, so knowledge of the standards published by all three is essential for a boat manufacturer, for surveyors and for people servicing boats.

Generally speaking, surveyors follow the standards published by ABYC. Unfortunately they often don't make a distinction in their survey report between what is a law and what is a voluntary standard. In fact some simply say "It's a Coast Guard requirement" and leave it at that, which is untrue. Whether done deliberately or out of ignorance is no excuse.

The first statement about batteries is almost correct but not quite.

"1. Batteries - starting and storage batteries should be stored in liquid proof containers so that battery acid can not come in contact with aluminum or steel hulls. We all know what battery acid does to aluminum and steel. They must be secured so that they cannot move during a collision and covered so that they can not be accidentally shorted. Storage batteries must also be vented so that they can not build up dangerous level of hydrogen gases. NFPA 302 - ABYC - CFR 33
No more than 4 terminals attached to any one battery - NFPA 302 - ABYC - CFR 33"

The operative word here is should. Here is what the Federal Regulation says:

Sec. 183.420 Batteries.
(a) Each installed battery must not move more than one inch in any
direction when a pulling force of 90 pounds or twice the battery weight, whichever is less, is applied through the center of gravity of the battery as follows:
(1) Vertically for a duration of one minute.
(2) Horizontally and parallel to the boat's center line for a
duration of one minute fore and one minute aft.
(3) Horizontally and perpendicular to the boat's center line for a
duration of one minute to starboard and one minute to port.

(b) Each battery must be installed so that metallic objects cannot
come in contact with the ungrounded battery terminals.

(c) Each metallic fuel line and fuel system component within 12
inches and above the horizontal plane of the battery top surface as
installed must be shielded with dielectric material.

(d) Each battery must not be directly above or below a fuel tank,
fuel filter, or fitting in a fuel line.

(e) A vent system or other means must be provided to permit the
discharge from the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery.
(f) [Reserved]

(g) Each battery terminal connector must not depend on spring
tension for its mechanical connection to the terminal.

Notice, it does not say how the battery should be constrained or how to prevent inadvertent contact by shielding it. A common method is to put the battery in a ventilated box. However, the Coast Guard does not require a box. The battery may be held with a strap or clamps and it can be shielded with boots on the terminals. It can also be in a tray that keeps it from moving and will hold any spillage.

Also, there is no mention of how many terminals can be connected to the battery. There is no requirement for this in the Electrical subpart (33CFR subpart I starting at 183.401). This is an NFPA requirement and an ABYC requirement. It is in NFPA 302 7-14.10 and in ABYC E-11.16.4.1.11

Here is the NFPA wording for batteries. It does not say they have to be in a battery box. It allows for other means of compliance

NFPA 302 says: in 302-7.3
"A vent system or other means shall be provided to allow the discharge from the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery. Battery boxes with a cover that forms a pocket over the battery shall be vented."

"Batteries shall be secured to provide immobilization to the extent practicable."

"Batteries shall be located in a liquid tight tray or battery box of adequate capacity to retain normal spillage or boilover of electrolytes. The tray shall be constructed of or lined with materials resistant to deterioration by the electrolytes."

"A non conductive, perforated cover or other means shall be provided to prevent accidental shorting of the ungrounded battery terminals and cell conductors."

ABYC says similar things. Standards for batteries are found in ABYC E-10. No where does it say they must be in a battery box and it provides alternative means to comply. Obviously the easiest way of meeting these requirements is a battery box, but it is not required and it is not a regulation.

2. Horns - if your boat is over 32 feet in length you must have a sound powered warning device that can be heard at a minimum of ½ mile away. A trumpet style horn will fulfill this requirement. CFR 33
3. Bells - if your boat is over 32 feet in length you must have a ships bell that is a minimum of 6.5" in diameter. CFR 33


For both horns and bells the length is 39 feet 4 and ½ inches (12 meters)

6. Anchor - Yes, I know we don't use them much on Lake Cumberland or other deep lakes, but they are still a requirement of CFR 33 - I suggest as a minimum you would need a Hooker #22, 8 feet of 3/8" galvanized chain and 200 to 300 feet of 5/8" three stand nylon rope. Most house boaters already have the rope we use to tie up with when we "cove out" so all you need is the anchor and chain. The chain is $15 at the hardware store and the

Hooker #22 is $50 at Boat US. It may not be the perfect storm anchor but it can help keep you off the rocks until help comes.


This is a completely erroneous statement. Nowhere in the Federal Regulations for recreational boats is there a requirement to carry an anchor. Many states require an anchor. But it is not a Federal requirement. Boat owners can find out what the state regulations are on the internet by going to the state Boating Law Administrators web site. Go to the National Association of State Boating Law Administrators site (NASBLA) http://www.nasbla.org/ and find the link to your state

7. Signal Flares - If your boat is over 16ft long - you are required to have at a minimum three hand held flares and the service dates must not be expired. If you have some that are out of date then keep them and use them first in an emergency..... .then use the newer flares after the out of date ones. CFR 33

This is incorrect. There are alternative visual distress signals you may carry. Additionally there is a difference between distress signals you may carry in the daytime and at night. It is too lengthy to explain here so I will just give a link to a page on the Coast Guard Boating Safety web site that explains it thoroughly. http://www.uscgboating.org/saf...eqs/equ_vds.htm


8. Exterior AC sockets - all exterior AC 115 volt electrical sockets must be weather protected with spring loaded weather proof covers and they must be GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) protected. NFPA 302
The same holds true for AC sockets within 3 feet of a water source - galley and heads included.


This is not a regulation. This is a NFPA requirement and the GFCI portion of it is also an ABYC requirement. It is required by the surveyor to pass the survey. But it is not a regulation and not a violation of law.

9. Generator discharge - If you have a generator and it discharges under the swim platform or any cavity where Carbon Monoxide can be trapped - the discharge must be changed to discharge out the side of the vessel. - no exceptions - no excuses. Failure on the boat owner's part to have this repaired or retrofitted would subject the owner to criminal penalty. Knowing and Willful violation - Wrongful death ..do these sound familiar ? ABYC - CFR 3

This is not true. A few years ago the Coast Guard directed specific manufacturers to do a recall on houseboats with rear swim platforms. It was limited to a certain number of manufacturers, not all houseboat manufacturers. Plus that, it is not in the CFR, although 33 CFR part 179 contains procedures for defect notification. It is a requirement that the manufacturer make the correction. It is not a requirement for the boat owner. In fact the boat owner is within his rights to refuse the correction. It is definitely a good idea to get it done, but no owner is breaking the law by not doing this. However, if an accident occurs and you are sued this could certainly be seen as negligence by a court, but it is not a criminal violation. The author is right that it could bring about a wrongful death law suit in civil court.

If a boat owner has one of the boats involved, and has not received a notice from the manufacturer then they should immediately contact them. You can find out if your boat is included by going to the Coast Guard web site for recalls, typing in the name of your manufacturer and looking up any recalls. http://www.uscgboating.org/rec.../recalls_database.htm. You can find this on BOAT/US site http://www.boatamerica.org/recall/.


10. Carbon Monoxide detector - Smoke and Fire Detectors. If you have a generator or fossil fuel fired marine engines and you own the boat as of July 1st 2003 you must have a Carbon monoxide detector. CFR 33 - ABYC It must be functional - not disconnected! If your boat has a sleeping quarters - you must have a smoke and fire detector I suggest one in each of the sleeping quarters as a minimum.

This is not a Federal Requirement. ABYC standard, A-24, requires manufacturers to install Carbon Monoxide detectors. This is a manufacturer requirement, is voluntary and does not apply to boat owners. This is another thing that an owner should do. It is good commons sense on any boat with gasoline power or a gasoline powered generator. It does not apply to diesel powered boats or generators, but if it were my boat I would install them anyway.

11. Fire Extinguishers - NFPA 302 10-1.1 requires at least one 4A:30B: Class B2 fire extinguisher available in the machinery space. (engine compartment or generator area). NFPA 302 and USCG require fire extinguishers at each occupied level. Available fire extinguishers must be permanently mounted to be considered USCG - NFPA or ABYC compliant. NFPA 302 and USCG require all fire extinguisher and extinguisher systems to be inspected at least annually. This must be done to ensure the safety of the crew and passengers. (this inspection may be performed and documented on the equipment inspection tags by the vessel owner). Fire extinguishers (all) need to be inspected and recertified annually. Additional US Coast Guard approved fire extinguishers are required in each occupied level (lower cuddy's and upper berths) as well at each entrance/exit of the vessel, machinery spaces and in the galley NFPA 302 - ABYC - CFR 33.

Here the author is mixing requirements for recreational boats and requirements for commercial passenger carrying vessels.
Recreational boats. The following is borrowed from the Coast Guard Office of Boating Safety Web site.

The number of fire extinguishers required on a recreational boat are based on the overall length of the boat. The following chart lists the number of extinguishers that are required. In the case where a Coast Guard approved fire extinguishing system is installed for the protection of the engine compartment, the required number of units may be reduced in accordance with the chart.
Minimum number of hand portable fire extinguishers required
Vessel Length No Fixed System With approved Fixed Systems
Less than 26' 1 B-1 0
26' to less than 40' 2 B-1 or 1 B-II 1 B-I
40' to 65' 3 B-I or 1 B-II and 1 B-1 2 B-1 or 1 B-II

The pressure gauge alone is not an accurate indicator that Halon extinguishers are full. The weight of the units should be checked regularly. It is recommended that portable extinguishers be mounted in a readily accessible position.
In fact the Federal Regulation for recreational boats does not even require that the fire extinguisher be mounted on a bracket. However, it is impractical to not have them mounted. The Federal Regulations do not require them to be inspected, but it is highly recommended. NFPA 302 does have these requirements. On vessels carrying passengers for hire the Federal Regulations are essentially the same as NFPA 302..

12. Lighting and Control Switches - must be labeled as to the function they serve.

This is not a Federal Regulation. This is an ABYC requirement for manufacturers. This is in E-11.5.1.2 and 11.5.1.2.1 what it says is:

11.5.1.2. Marking

11.5.1.2.1.1 Marking of controls - All switches and electrical controls shall be marked to indicate their usage.

Exception: A switch or electrical control whose purpose is obvious and whose mistaken operation will not cause a hazardous condition.

So a light switch in a bedroom does not have to be marked because its function is obvious. But a switch to start the generator does. Some common sense has to be used here. You do not have to mark every switch on the boat. Switches that are at the helm station, or switches on an electrical panel or circuit breaker panel should be marked.

13. Rules of The Road - You must have a copy of the FRESH WATER - Rules of the road for inland seas and waterways on board if your boat is over 28 feet in length. CFR 33

The requirement for carrying this is in the Navigation Rules which are contained in 33 CFR. Part 88 Annex V - Pilot Rules. This is part of the Navigation Rules.
§ 88.05 Copy of Rules

After January 1, 1983, the operator of each self-propelled vessel 12 meters or more in length shall carry on board and maintain for ready reference a copy of the Inland Navigation Rules.

There are no FRESH WATER rules of the road and the length requirement is 12 meters, approximately 39' 4 1/2", not 28 feet. There are International Navigation Rules and Inland Navigation Rules. The distinction can be important because Inland rules can apply on saltwater bays and inlets. These are contained in the same document which can be purchased at any marine supply house, book store, from the Government Printing Office, or download them. http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/mwv/navrules/navrules.htm

14. Do it yourself AC wiring - It is now illegal to use ROMEX or solid core electrical wire in boats - Many older boats are grand fathered provided it was wired that way at the factory - If you wired it in the last 10 years it must be done with stranded copper wire only. NFPA 302 - ABYC - CFR 33

This is really misleading. It is not illegal to wire your boat yourself and the requirement for stranded wire is a manufacturer requirement. 33 CFR 183.425 says "a) Each conductor must be insulated, stranded copper." It does not apply to boat owners. The Federal regulation is a manufacturer requirement and a requirement of both ABYC and NFPA. You will not pass a survey if you have Romex or other solid core wire, but it is not illegal for the owner. However the owner would be advised to use boat cable.

15. Engine compartment fume blowers and engine compartment bilge pumps must be operational.
CFR 33 - NFPA 302 - ABYC


Huh? When did ventilation blowers and bilge pumps get lumped together? Ventilation blowers must be operational and sized to the volume of the compartment. They are required on all boats with permanently installed gasoline engines, if the engine has a cranking motor. Natural ventilation is required on all boats with permanently installed gasoline engines and has been since the Motor Boat Act of 1940. These requirements are in 33 CFR Subpart K that starts at 33 CFR 183.601. Ventilation is both a manufacturer requirement and an operator requirement

There is no Federal requirement for a bilge pump. NONE. ABYC does not require a bilge pump be installed. In H-22 Electric Bilge Pump Systems, there are requirements for the pumps, for their installation and location, but the standard specifically says "apply to all boats equipped with electric bilge pump systems". (the italics are mine) NFPA has no requirements for bilge pumps. Nowhere does it say you have to have one. Of course it is good common sense to have one.

SUMMARY:

What the author really is saying is that these are requirements to pass his surveys (And I might add, just about any good marine survey). Granted all of these may be an issue that a surveyor should raise. But it is incumbent on any professional to get it right. The public soon loses faith in professionals if they find out they have been misled. If it is a requirement to pass the survey for insurance purposes, then say so, but don't tell them it's the law when they can easily pick up a phone, or look it up on the internet and find out it is not. If this is a condition and value survey, point out these issues, but again make sure you cite the right source and explain whether it is a regulation, or an accepted standard.
Friday, May 22, 2009 
Boat Fires and Explosions

This is the season for spring fitting out. People are anxious to get out on the water and have fun. But it is also the season for boat fires and explosions. The reason is simple. Lack of adequately preparing your boat for the season ahead, and being a little too hasty when fueling your boat. Here is a post I made about this in 2008. It still applies.

But in some cases it is self explanatory, especially for those occurring in the Spring when boats are being brought out of storage, or fires that occur just after fueling.Most fires are electrical in origin, but if you have a gasoline powered boat the danger of a catastrophic explosion is very real. Fortunately there are few deaths, but they do happen, and the injuries are usually horrific. The destruction is usually total.

The key to all of this is following proper maintenance of fuel and electrical systems, and fueling procedures. I cannot stress maintenance enough. Every spring check your fuel system. Replace any hoses or fittings that are questionable. Have the tank and fuel system pressure tested for leaks. Check the clamps that keep the hoses in place. If they have started to corrode, replace them. Make sure the clamps you replace them with are 316L stainless steel, including the screw that tightens the clamp. Often the band is stainless but the screw is not. Fuel systems are not the place to try to save a few bucks. Make sure the hoses are USCG Type A hoses. Look for the label on the hose. Automotive fuel hose is not the same thing. Again, don’t try to save a few bucks here. Do not use automotive parts, either as hose or electrical parts on the engine. Do not replace starters, alternators and carburetors with automotive parts. They may look the same, but they are not the same. Electrical equipment needs to be marine UL listed, and ignition protected. If your boat is an outboard, replace the fuel hoses with Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) hoses. They are designed to be UV resistant and must meet marine industry standards.

Every time you use the boat, check the engine compartment first. Take a look at the fuel system and fittings. Sniff for fumes. Adequately ventilate before attempting to start the boat. Run the blower for at least four minutes. If the engine doesn’t start don’t keep cranking. It isn’t good for the starter, and it could overheat the wires to the starter. Wait a minute, and try again. If after a few tries it still won’t start, stop trying and find out why it isn’t starting. Fix the problem before trying again.

Fueling is one procedure you need to be very careful about. There is a very specific way to fuel a boat.

1. Tie up your boat securely and have everyone get off the boat. Shut off all the power on the boat. Turn off the battery switches. If you have a propane system with any automatic pilot lights, shut them off. Obviously, NO SMOKING.

2. Close up the boat tight. Make sure all the hatches, doors, ports and vents are closed.NOTE: some people make the mistake of running the bilge blower while fueling. DO NOT DO THIS. You are actually sucking fumes into the boat. Wait until after fueling to run the blower, see step 6.

3. Fuel the boat yourself. Make sure the nozzle is in the right opening. You would be surprised at how many people have tried to fuel through a fish pole holder or filled the water tank with gas. Make sure the nozzle stays in metal to metal contact with the fuel fill. Your tank and fuel system are grounded and electrically connected to the fuel fill so any static will be harmlessly discharged. However if you don't make initial contact with the fill a spark could jump from the fueling hose to the boat.

4. Make every attempt not to spill fuel or over fill the tank. Know how much your tank holds and keep track of how much you use. Know how much you need to pump. Clean up any drips or spills on the boat. Dispose of the rags properly. Do not spill overboard. This not only pollutes the environment, it can get you a hefty fine.

5. Now open the boat up completely. Open the doors, windows, hatches, ports and the engine room. Check the engine room and bilge for fuel by both looking and sniffing. The best gas detector is your nose. Thoroughly ventilate the boat especially the engine room.

6. Turn the battery switch on and start the engine room blower. Let it run for at least five minutes.

7. Start the engines. Close up the engine room hatch and other doors and hatches you don't want open. Get everyone back on board. Turn on any other power switches and appliances that need to be on.

8. Get underway

http://newboatbuilders.blogspot.com/2008/04/boat-fires-and-explosions.html

What about electrical fires? One very common scenario is leaving the boat hooked up to shore power during the winter, using a space heater, and not checking on the boat. The shore power plug can become a real hot spot. Most electrical fires are a result of high resistance in a plug or other electrical device, creating enough heat to catch fire. High resistance occurs most often at connections. The shore power plug is just one of those connections. The others are connections between wires and electrical devices, connections in the panel box to a buss or to circuit breakers and fuses.

Corrosion is the main culprit. The damp environment leads to rapid corrosion. Corrosion does not conduct electricity very well. This can even occur in fuse holders. Fuse holders are usually copper. Copper corrodes rapidly in a marine environment, especially if it’s saltwater. Keep wiring out of the bilges. If your boat should flood during the winter, you may have to replace all the wiring and electrical equipment. Get it inspected by a certified MARINE electrician. All electrical systems need to be inspected annually, at the least. If you don’t use your boat very often, you should check each time you use the boat. Plugs and connectors should be kept clean and shiny. Check fuse blocks for corrosion and clean the contacts. Check circuit breakers for proper operation. Check electrical equipment for proper operation. If something keeps tripping the circuit break or blowing a fuse, find out why. Do not ignore it or jump the breaker or fuse. Fix the problem. Not doing so could mean a fire.

If you have shore power, pull the plug on both ends and inspect the cord and both ends for corrosion. Do a resistance test. If it’s any more than 0 ohms, or at most 1 ohm, find out why. If the cord is getting old, cracking, getting soft, or frayed, replace it. Check the shore power socket on the boat. Is it clean and free from corrosion? Check the cap over the socket to make sure it is keeping moisture out of the socket.All of these things will help prevent fires on your boat.

Safe Boating Is For Life.
Friday, May 22, 2009 

HIN 101 for boat owners.

 

Every recreational boat sold in the USA and Canada, and many other countries, must have a Hull Identification Number (HIN). This is a unique number identifying each boat, in much the same way that every automobile has a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).  The US and Canadian rules for HINs are the same and the European Economic Community (EU) has adopted very similar rules. But some boat owners get confused about HINs, especially on older boats, that weren’t required to have them, and for home built boats.

 

In 1972 the Federal Boat Safety Act went into effect and as part of the act the U. S. Coast Guard was required to propose regulations for the safe construction of boats.  As a way to determine if a boat was in compliance, an HIN was required on each boat. The HIN identifies who the manufacturer is and when the boat was made. It is a twelve digit number.  The first three letters (in some MICs numbers) are the Manufacturer Identification Code (MIC) and the last four numbers show the date of certification.  You can look up a MIC here. http://www.uscgboating.org/recalls/mic_database.htm  

The date of certification is the date the manufacturer certifies that the boat meets all the rules that the particular boat has to meet.  But this kind of legal jargon is confusing to most people, so the last four digits, to most people, indicate when the boat was made.  Look here for the US Coast Guard’s own version of HIN 101.
http://www.uscgboating.org/recalls/pdfs/BSC70.pdf#basics

 

The rule was intended for boat builders and manufacturers, not boat owners.  But over the years boat owners became involved because all the states included the HIN in their registration process and wanted an HIN on every boat, even old and home made boats.  So part of the rule allowed states to assign an HIN to boats that didn’t have one. Each state is assigned its own MIC to use when assigning an HIN.

 

To further complicate the issue, the HIN became a tool for law enforcement agencies to detect stolen boats, insurance fraud and other crimes involving boats.  Insurance companies also use the HIN to identify specific boats. So it became more important for all boats, old and new alike to have an HIN. 

 

Normally a number is assigned by the builder or manufacturer and they keep a list of who the boats were sold to, by HIN.  This is an effective tool for defect recalls, and for law enforcement checking bogus HINs.

 

So where does the boat owner come in?  This is not normally an issue with a brand new boat.  The boat comes with the HIN on the transom, on most boats, or at or near the stern on boats with no transom.

 

A HIN looks like this:

ABC12345L409


So, what does it all mean? ABC is the MIC.

The next five characters are anything the builder wants to assign. It can be 12345, or 00001, or 0000A, or 32001. Whatever they want to put in there except: O, I or Q. These characters look too much like zeros or ones. Some manufacturers use a sort of code in this area. For instance, if they build a thirty footer and this is the first one then they would use 30001. Others just assign consecutive numbers, 00001, 00002, 00003, etc.


The ninth character identifies the month when the boat was certified (or built, I will explain this later) as shown in the chart below. So if it's built in May the ninth character would be an E.

It works like this:

A: January

G: July

B: February

H: August

C: March

I: September (yes it's an I, but it's ok)

D: April

J: October

E: May

K: November

F: June

L: December


The tenth character is last digit of the year when the boat was certified (or built), for example if the year is 1997, then the tenth character would be a 7, or if it is the year 2009, it would be a nine.


The last two characters are the model year. A builder can assign any model year they want but it better be pretty close to the year it was built. Most manufacturers start their model year in August, but some use June or July. It's up to them. However, if the boat was built in 2000 it shouldn’t say 1997. Every time someone tries to register that boat, alarms will go off all over the place. The cops will come and start asking nosy questions. Also, the owner will have a difficult time insuring the boat. The agent will suspect some sort of fraud if the model year is significantly different than the actual year built.


There have been some additions to the HIN since 1984.  A builder can add info before and after the number.  For instance, many imported boats have a country code before the number.


US - ABC12345L409


This is a boat built in the USA.  If the two letters were CA it would be Canada.  The International Standards Organization (ISO) publishes a list of country codes.

Additionally they can put up to five characters after the HIN.


US - ABC12345L495  H326


See this link for what those characters mean.


It is rare to see a 19 character HIN but they do exist.  The last five characters are a description of the boat and especially useful to law enforcement in tracking stolen boats.  The International Association of Marine Investigators has been trying for years to get the last five digits adopted by the US and the EU.  So far they have not been successful.


What if you buy an old boat made before 1972, and it doesn’t have an HIN, or you built it?  If you bought the boat make sure you get a valid bill of sale from whoever sold it.  If they have previously registered the boat you should also get the old registration. In states that Title boats you should get the title transferred as well.  If you built it you will not have any of these. The state will ask you to fill out a form.  This form attests that either you built the boat, or that it was built prior to 1972. They may also ask for a Manufacturer’s Statement of Origin (MSO), or a Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin (MCO).  Old boats or home built boats simply do not have these documents. Only new or factory built boats have them.

They may also require someone to actually look at the boat and verify it exists.  This may mean bringing the boat on a trailer to their office, or if it is a large boat, having a law enforcement officer look at the boat.


They will then assign an HIN to the boat.  You will have to put the HIN on the boat in two places.  The requirement is for the HIN to be on the upper right corner of the transom, or if no transom, at or near the stern on the right side below the gunwale. A duplicate has to be put in a concealed location.  Remember where this is. If you ever sell the boat you will need to pass this on to the next owner.

It must be “permanently affixed”.  This means put on in such a way that any efforts to remove or change it will be obvious.  It can be burned, etched, carved, or stamped.  You can put it on a plate or label as long as the plate or label can not be removed.


Just to confuse the issue even further, before 1984 there were two ways to put the date of certification on the HIN;  it could look like this ABC000011272, or ABC00001M73E.  Both of these are valid and indicate a boat built in December 1972, (hence 12  and 72 on one, or M for model year 73 and E for the month of December).  This was very confusing so in 1984 the current HIN was adopted.


Registration rules vary from state to state. So contact the state’s Boating Law Administrator.  


To make this even more muddied, imported boats are now entering the country with HINs that appear to be valid.  They look just like US or Canadian HINs and they are valid in the country of origin, but not in the USA. All Canadian HINs are valid in the US and vice versa. Why aren’t most foreign HINS valid?  It goes back to the MIC.  The US and Canada have a shared MIC code database.  Since 1972 they have assigned approximately 40,000 MICs. At any one time only about 4500 are active but companies go in and out of business daily. 


Then the ISO adopted the MIC assignment system.  The EU incorporated this in their code called the Recreational Craft Directive.  Each EU country is now assigning MICs to their boat manufacturers.  Many of these are identical to MICs assigned by the US and Canada.   So a boat with a MIC of ABC may have been made in any of several dozen countries. 

T
he rule in the US is that the importer is supposed to get a MIC from the US Coast Guard and assign valid MICs to the boats.  Unfortunately this is rarely done and there are thousands of imported boats sold each year in the US with invalid HINs.  This usually comes home to roost when the boat is registered with a state.

So if you buy an imported boat and it has a foreign HIN (other than Canada) you may get asked a lot of questions when you try to register it, or document it with the US Coast Guard.  They will run the HIN through their database and the manufacturer will not be correct. If the HIN is not valid, you may have to contact the US Coast Guard (or Canadian Coast Guard) to get it straightened out and get a valid HIN for the boat.  If you import the boat yourself, you will have to get a valid HIN.   If you are going to register it with a state they will assign a state HIN. If documenting the boat the USCG may have to assign a valid HIN.


So, what to do if you get a boat with a bogus HIN, that is, there is a valid error in the number, or someone altered the HIN?   People have been caught altering HINs to make the boat a newer model, or to try selling a stolen boat.  The best thing to do is contact the boating authority in your state, and the US Coast Guard Office of Boating Safety 202-372-1073.  Make every attempt to get this straightened out, because if you don’t it will come back to haunt you.  Suppose you get boarded and they run the HIN.  Or, you get a safety check by local law enforcement at a boat ramp and they discover the bogus HIN,  or you try to sell the boat.  The boat may get impounded, and you won’t get it back until the investigation is complete and you are cleared.  So, get it fixed as soon as you discover the problem.

NASBLA Directory of State Boating authorities: http://www.nasbla.org/i4a/member_directory/feSearchForm.cfm?directory_id=3&pageid=3335&showTitle=1

HINs for Boat Builders http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/hin17.html

Country Codes Per the ISO: http://www.iso.org/iso/country_codes/iso_3166_code_lists/english_country_names_and_code_elements.htm
Saturday, February 07, 2009 
Carbon Monoxide Kills

There have been multiple deaths from carbon monoxide poisoning all over the eastern US in the last week due to the cold weather. None of these have occurred on boats but the risk is very real. If you must use a portable generator or a propane heater (or any heater that uses combustion) make sure the generator is outside and the heater is only used in a well ventilated area. CO can kil in minutes in high concentrations. All internal combustion engines including diesels generate CO. Some less than others. heaters that have a flame also deplete oxygen and generate CO. CO bonds more readily in your blood stream than oxygen does and can cause permanent brain damage to those who aren't killed.

Users of portable generators warned of poisoning risks The Gleaner Mon, 02 Feb 2009 09:45 AM PST WASHINGTON, D.C. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is issuing a warning to consumers confronted with severe winter weather: When thereâs a power outage, exercise caution when using portable generators. Just in the past week there have been four deaths related to carbon monoxide in Kentucky.

Numerous Carbon Monoxide Poisoning Cases Reported LEX 18 Lexington Mon, 02 Feb 2009 08:32 AM PST The number of residents suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning continues to increase. Since the power outages began, Jewish Hospital in Louisville has seen 21 patients suffering from carbon monoxide

Serious Risk of Fire or Carbon Monoxide Leaks for Furnaces Covered by a Class Action Settlement PR Newswire via Yahoo! Finance Mon, 02 Feb 2009 10:00 AM PST Owners of residential furnaces manufactured before 2001 are urged to check whether they are covered by a proposed class action settlement that covers more than one million furnaces with faulty burners, heat exchangers, and/or expansion joints.

Two die of carbon monoxide poisoning KXXV Waco Mon, 02 Feb 2009 10:49 AM PST The Harker Heights Fire Department find a man and a woman dead in a travel trailer.

Elderly women found dead in home WPVI-TV Philadelphia Mon, 02 Feb 2009 12:30 PM PST The Ridley Township Police Department is investigating a carbon monoxide incident that has claimed the life of two elderly women.

Beshear: 24 confirmed dead due to ice storm WAVE 3 Louisville Mon, 02 Feb 2009 14:35 PM PST Kentucky Gov. Steve Beshear says 24 people have now died in Kentucky from the winter storm. Beshear said in a letter to President Barack Obama released Monday that 10 of the deaths were the result of carbon monoxide poisoning and at least nine others from hypothermia
Saturday, November 01, 2008 

Category: Blogging

Welcome to my space

I have a web page at http://newboatbuilders.com for people getting into building boats, or thinking about starting a business building boats.  It covers all aspects of what a person should knwo starting out.  It's good for boat owners too because it covers many of the regulations and standards for boats and has an extensive section on electrical systems.

I also have a blog for boat builders at http://newboatbuildersnews.blogspot.com/ And a boating safety Blog at http://newboatbuilders.blogspot.com/