
Talkin' 'bout my generation:
Fear and Loathing in the Great American Heartland
I am sitting next to a stage of formidable proportion, just outside a bar where the big commemorative weekend bash is about to begin. A '70s rock band is setting up, and a couple arms' lengths away a freight train ambles by. It seems to mirror the leisurely pace of summer--clickity-clack, clickity-clack. Car after car after car. Its steadfast and reassuring, but for me one question persists: What the hell am I doing here in the middle of the American farm belt, America's heartland?

The road into Champaign
"Did you bring your tape recorder?" Dru says to me. "Good question," I reply, although at that particular moment I don't know why. I'm not sure if I am an ethnographer abruptly dropped in from another world, one more diehard rock 'n roller, or a filmmaker short just a script and a few mill of calling for cameras to roll. Whichever, I figure the tape recorder is a justifiable if not worthwhile prop dictated by the occasion. Stocked with extra batteries and cassettes, I never once turn on the machine.
On the night of August 11, 2006, hundreds of rabid Midwestern music fans converge on the Fat City Saloon in Champaign, Illinois to begin a three-day celebration that will forever be known as the Red Lion Inn 40th Anniversary Reunion. For me, the connection between the two venues is not altogether clear, although I gather that one downtown tavern is at least as good, if not better, than another.
Prior to setting out for this confab I am led to understand that during the 1960s and '70s and into the '80s Champaign-Urbana (nominally two halves of a municipal whole) provided fecund support for the embryonic journey of many, many a rock 'n roll band. And the formation of this explosive music scene was linked inextricably to a nucleus of public support emanating from said inn, dating to one fateful night forty years earlier and owing its humble origins to a not so humble shuttered Tudor enclave located at the intersection of Third & Green Streets in downtown Champaign. But who really knows, legends being the stuff of lore?
And thus, last week this mid-town parking lot and beer garden served as the focal point for townies, flatlanders and anomalous creatures such as yours truly to come together for a celebration of music and youth culture by bulging and balding 60-year olds.
Drink in hand, I'm standing in front of the smaller of two tents waiting for the festivities to commence. A 40s-ish blond woman sidles up to me from out of no where and starts to make conversation. Instead of an innocent starter like "What brings you here?" and then the flash of a smile, she lunges into what feels much more like an interrogation. "All the girls are wondering just who you are," the short woman says quite matter-of-factly. "What do you do and why are you here?" She explains that no one else had the courage to approach me with these questions. In the spirit of full disclosure, I tell her that I have come 2,000 miles to meet some friends whom I myself have never before met. She's had enough and walks away.
I go to call home, but my cell phone is without service. As far as I know, it last worked at the airport in Dallas. But after touching down here in Champaign, dead. Everyone else's phone is working just fine, but I'm having to rely on the occasional piece of scrawl from the motel desk clerk. My phone will not show a single bar of signal strength until I am once again on the tarmac, this time taxiing into position for take-off.
I meet Suzy, another reveler. She tells me her kids are into sports. I notice something: People here are big, extra-big, easily topping 200, maybe 250 pounds of corn-fed weight. I think they look like cattle, and from the boulevards of chain restaurants I gather that steaks, chops and burgers are a main food staple. It occurs to me that I am observing the top of the food chain as far as corn fed beef and steroids in the dairy go. Scary thought, then I realize that a bad case of culture shock has sent my perceptions into feverish overdrive. Time to chill, and I down another drink. I'm standing beneath the Budweiser big top, which projects a protective shroud like a mother's apron. Unfortunately, the big top is blocks from the nearest square meal and I'm dousing feelings of social isolation with alcohol on an empty stomach.
While this particular irony is almost too obvious to mention, it was actually a lack of irony that seemed to characterize most every town and country nook around Champaign during my four-day stay--with only a few notable exceptions. Modern, urban existence is, of course, characterized by subtext and irony, the semantic cross-winds and undercurrents that lend meaning to meaning. Glib and gilded to the point of collective ennui, we urbanites are accustomed to a whole whirlpool of interpretive possibility. Hell, nothin' means nothin' if it aint tossed on the high seas of situational turbulence or subject to a host of postmodern uncertainties. Then it really means something.
But the flatlands of Illinois move to their own, steady beat. I wanted to know the meaning--or at least the origins--of the U. of Illinois "Illini." "The Fighting Illini," I am told. "Oh. And 'Illini' are . . . ?" "Animal, mineral or vegetable?," I'm thinking. Perhaps it means "little soldiers," or maybe it's the plural of "illinus"? Inevitably, this line of reasoning leads no where and the questions die on the vine.
Constantly I find the fine citizens of Champaign to be so nice, so accommodating, so utterly direct; their masts are fully upright and their mainsails are billowed and full. Often they recite from scripts, seeming to savor every simple request and sentiment. Like the land, their voices are flat as the plains and their intonation conveys God-given virtue and sincerity. Try to throw a wrench into the works, and they'll just return it to you all shiny and new. Damn hard not to like the flatlanders. But also hard not to feel uprooted and plowed under. This lack of contrivance goes against the grain--probably not an unfamiliar image to local farmhands who can work the wood or the fields with equal proficiency.
To be fair, and thankfully so, all was not so straight-forward. Sensing my sense of dislocation, Dru, a newfound friend and well traveled local resident, directs me to the nearest California fusion pizza-sushi bar. Hugh sigh of relief. The sushi chef introduces himself as "Samurai," while the sous chef, a Mexican immigrant, flatly counters with the moniker "Poncho Villa." I know things are poised to get interesting. "Hamachi nigiri, Poncho Villa-san," I say.

Irony is not dead outside the Market Place shopping mall
After two days the psychic dislocation begins to ease. People are people, I think, and a good meal is the best equalizer. And once fed, how can one not find bliss in a swelling sea of ancient boomers, where blasts of Tower of Power collide against the lyrical fire of Pete Townsend, where Voodoo Chile melds with the lovelorn strands of Janis, and the requisite gods and goddesses are summoned. As one would expect, folks who haven't seen one another in 20, maybe 30 years are reunited, and after a few sets of music, the years fade away and amistad and solidarity prevail. And on a more personal level, new friends--even jittery urbanites--are embraced and welcomed into the fold with an air of easy, unconditional acceptance. So did the spirit of the '60s get channeled and time transported. This may be one for the ages, I think, and the fact that it is right here in Champaign is perhaps the best irony of all.
--for Dru, Dixie, Sarah & Nancy

After the great Hollywood Hangover--
Farmgirls Nancy & Dixie, with rodeo queen Sarah

Under the big top--Kathy Harden & the Delta Kings
(photo courtesy of Dru Vaughn)
Champaign on the Great Hollywood HangoverThe official Red Lion Inn reunion