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Charlie Pickett



Last Updated: 11/21/2009

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Status: Single
City: South Florida
State: Florida
Country: US
Signup Date: 6/25/2006

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Wednesday, April 25, 2007 
I posted this a week after The Show to a group of friends, most of whom were at the show, and many of whom were not. Please excuse the "I, me, my" aspect. It was, in part, a diary-like posting, written down for personal recollection. Hope this amuses.

Our Set Sunday
Posted by: "Charles Leroy Pickett, Jr." Cpickett@caseyciklin.com  
Sun Feb 4, 2007 12:40 pm (PST)
I went in there trying to play a 10 on a scale of 10 and hoping to play a 6. Eddie and I got there early, around noon. I was trying to get some preview of what the other bands were going to play and how they had weathered the years but most importantly to me, to get a sound check of my amps on that relatively big stage. I brought a 60-watt, four-ten, Fender blond Blues Deluxe (maybe that's what it is called, I can't be bothered to remember), an Ampeg 60-watt, one-fifteen VT-40, a 20-watt Reverb Rocket, and a weird 15-watt Blues Jr (in a different box-cabinet). I had never played with the 60-watt Fender wide open and that's the one I wanted to use with the VT-40 (via an A-B box) with the VT-40 handling the low mids and bottom end to free up the Fender for high mids and treble only.

Barry Seiver showed up early too (more of Barry in a post to follow). We moved my amps to the dressing room as things were progressing slowly on stage. The rig seemed ok there--if I held onto the neck, feedback would slowly develop (although the hot spots were different than on the smaller amps). Eddie went home to get Peppy. I caught up with Barry and watched soundchecks -- and was impressed by how tight every band was (though some were without a member or two).

Eddie got back with Peppy and Vullo and Rick showed up around 3:30 and Deb Cichlid took off to try to find Bobby (more on that in a later post too). We all tuned up. I overloaded--brought six guitars and a guitar-rack to try to avoid tuning problems. I did not want to use an onstage tuner fearing line-drop and/or battery weakness -- and I'd decided long ago that I was going to try to avoid between-song blabber that sometimes makes the tuning less painful to the audience. (Moreover, the audience-types I anticipated don't want to hear comparisons between Holden Caulfield and Huckleberry Flynn).

Nervous. Although I've played more than 700 hundred shows (I guess) and have experienced every kind of ecstasy and humiliation that goes with playing, I was nervous about this show way back, even to the point of waking up at night thinking about it. Part of it was due to playing in front of band-people I have not played in front of for years (Z-Cars and Critical Mass mostly) and part of it was the idea of playing rock in front of a lot of strangers at 53 years old, fat, with grey hair. However, the nervousness went away though about a month before the show. That being said though, I must have still had more than normal pre-show excitement because we sound-checked to Nadine in the key of D -- my mistake because I start it off and we actually play it in A.

The VT-40 was fizzing/squeaking so I pulled the A-B box and just checked through the 60-watt Fender. Everyone could hear ok and Barry did a very short check of his amp--a back-line 50-watt Marshall. Here was my first mistake of the day though. I should have noticed that the Fender was not on the verge of feedback, it was just loud with merely decent sustain.

Shortly thereafter, someone decided that Peppy O'Brien was not properly credentialed (oh no, not that!) so I had to mess around with that for a few minutes at the box office and then, they wouldn't let me back in (in truth, I'd given my stuff to son, Ty, figuring some security person would know me).

Billy (Slyder) Livesay's kids opened the show and they were darned good as far as delivery, sound quality, and tightness. I was expecting amateur, weak, and poor execution. Then they concluded with Bruce Witkin's daughter joining them for one song. (Some of this is for Cindy, Robert, Rupe, and others that were not there).

We went on at 5:10, I believe. About 1,700 paid attendees—raised a lot of $$ for charity. I thought, because it was being filmed, that the right thing to do vis-a-vis the film-maker (Diane Jaques) was give her songs that I could waive royalty payments for (until the film made a little money, if ever), so we planned to play all originals except for Mark's If This Is Love, Can I Get My Money Back? and Eddie's I Led Two Lives.

I just fell into the objective I've always done with big crowds, just try to move it. However, at 53 and 245 pounds, I was GASPING for air during the second verse of the first song (Travelust). I remember thinking, "Well this is great--I want to rock but I can't breathe." I was trying to get a breath between every WORD of the second verse of Travelust. Anyhow, we got through it at about a "5" (out of 10) rating. The crowd response was "nice."

Second song was a cow-punk number that I went through on dull auto-pilot just trying to establish a more realistic physical pace for myself and a friendly-guy rapport with the audience. That being said, I remember spitting all over the stage at every opportunity (that's what got the Eat banned from the Agora, remember?), and spitting is such a nice, friendly thing to do (and in front of my son, no less).

Third song in was Heads Up, Heels Down and by then I was partly out of tune. Couldn't use the low-E to make the chorus churn-out low. While trying to stay on string sections that were in tune, I noticed very much that the amp was just not coming back to me with long sustain or feedback (MY MISTAKE). Also, I perceived that the audience was indifferent to us to this point.

Against his wishes, Eddie had agreed to do I Led Two Lives and play it on guitar. I bailed out to get one that was in tune but Eddie led everyone through it like the true professional that he is (not trying to be funny here, Eddie might hate it, but the truth of it is that he is a professional). "Led Two Lives" was the highlight of our set even though I blew on backup guitar and missed every background vocal. So glad we played this for all our friends that flew down.

I had planned to do an Eat chant and tried to get one going. Either our crowd wasn't loud enough and/or the regular folks were unmovable, but I didn't hear anyone chanting so I figured that we were really going downhill with the regular crowd. Normally, that is no big deal to me, just slog on and try some different things. But here, I didn't want to set a bad tone/atmosphere for the rest of the show/bands so I figured, play If This is Love, and get off.

I was oblivious to one important aspect at this point, that is, that Barry had flown down to play If This with us. Flew down to play ONE song ... and he had his adult daughter in the audience who had never seen him play. While I had planned a nice intro and set-up (something like, this is the guy who started our band and we'd like to give a shout-out to Kirsten, etc.), I had also planned to play a slide number after If This and then have Jimmy Johnson pie me (this I thought would be big fun for Ty - he is ten). The pie trick is something I saw Critical Mass do at the Agora and I'd asked Mick Fazz if he minded me stealing it for Da Show. Anyhow, because I'd decided to shorten up our show, I'm looking for Jimmy to sign him to do the pie on If This and mind-farted on Barry's introduction, forgetting it altogether.

I start If This is Love and still can't find Jimmy. I old-man my way through the first two verses, do an unconscious and very unceremonial, "Take it away Barry," find Jimmy, and come back to the mic to try to wind it up. I try to say something appropriate about Sheila Witkin, and then try to leave on a high note--a sing-along on the chorus of If This (believe it or not, I've got out-of-town audiences to do this occasionally). But I forget until the last minute that I haven't sung the last verse yet and that Jimmy is standing behind me with the pie. So I skip the last verse, try for the sing-along (unsucessfully), get pied, and we slug our way out of the song and leave.

I get Ty-boy to help clean up the pie remains and the stage crew was mad about that mess. Only much later did I realize how stupidly and thoughtlessly I had slighted Barry--no intro, no "spotlight on," and also doing the pie trick during his only song.

In addition to my regret over the foregoing re Barry, I regret that I hadn't played through my smaller amps. The natural verge of feedback that they deliver helps get those easy natural rythemic (sp?) drives going. Without near-feedback, it is just stroke, stroke, stroke, stroke, stroke. Like I said, I had planned to play a slide number and maybe a slide verse/chorus of Amazing Grace but squashed both as they would be just loud and blare-ry--no amp-driven overtones.

Because we played a "5" to a "4," on its way to a "3," I was not too personally disgusted. Disappointed, but not disgusted.

I watched Critical Mass, Slyder, and (most of) Z-Cars out front with Penny and Ty then went backstage to watch Tight Squeeze, Kidz, Romantics and jam-out because the house sound-man was giving me a heart murmer, separating my skull, and loosening my fillings with his bizarro-loud kick-drum oriented mix. (More on the bands later). Bruce Witkin waved me onstage during the jam-out at the end. I went up and Johnny Depp gave me his guitar line. (BTW, he must remain a pretty nice/thoughtful/considerate guy to fly from England to do this show--a charity event in honor of Bruce Witkin's mother, Sheila).  Anyway, I thought to myself, "Oh great, I bet the crowd is real pleased to see me replace Johnny Depp." To make the switch, he put his Marshall on standby, I did not see it or recognize it for some time. Chris Bacon is next to me and I keep trying to figure it out while telling Chris, "I got nothing on this amp." I mime playing guitar (the Hello Kitty, I believe) and help sing backgrounds on Route 66. During the switch-off leads, the Romantics singer (BTW, a nice guy) slides over to me and asks if I know the words. I tell him, No," (and I don't--I know only about a verse and an half--the same one he's already sang twice). Coz considerately "cobra sways" (Cindy
J) his way over to me to see if I want to play a break to which I reply, "I got nothing on this amp," like the full-on idiot that I am at this point because a few seconds later, I REALIZE THAT THE AMP IS SIMPLY ON STANDBY. Duh, I switch it on, get some sound, and the song ends. I look around and Depp is standing at the stage stairs. I say, "Hey man, c'mon and take this thing back," he does, they continue to rock out, and now I've had it--too much personal stupidity for one day.

I know that this posting is "all about me" but I'm just telling about a big day in my year from my personal point of view. Not trying to cover anything other than the personal/subjective about what we/I played Sunday. Apologies to all, especially Barry. Hope this post explains some of my errors that led to an "ehhh" show and provided some post-show amusement.  In the end of the day, my son thinks I'm an even greater hero than before and that means a lot to me.
Sunday, June 25, 2006 

Category: Music

The following are some random thoughts I posted a group of friends in May 2006. 

 

1. I surfed through the channels and bumped into American (shiftless when) Idle. In short, Taylor is a double-chinned, bland-faced, gray-haired, no-discernable talent except SINGING! (cue John Lovitz) mirror-star and has no stage presence whatsoever except to be able to mince back and forth aimlessly while glancing scared at the camera in a stiff/forced effort to "make eye-contact." Didn't see the girl except her pic on USA Today: pretty (like millions of others).

2. James B. Johnson, III, you are the best.

3. Bob Rupe's new outfit, Horsehead, has a new CD out. I don't have it yet.  Butt-kissing review to follow.

4. I'm reading a 2005 Babe Ruth book currently. It is good but not required reading.

5. Eddie O'Brien and I agree that Phillip Roth's Great American Novel is close to just that.

6. Eddie, Bobby Tak, Ian/Rusty Hammond, and I drove to Tallahassee. So did Jeff Schweir, Karen Wideen, and Ian's girlfriend. Ian barbeque-d for most everyone.  We played some songs.  Ian, Eddie, and Bobby played very well--covering up the fact that I sucked (and hogged the microphones).  Bobby did an amusing James Brown cape/wrestling-like trick with a guitar.  I did some not-amusing, ugly, unfortunately, mostly scripted, stage patter.  Didn't notice that my amp was on 3 and 1/2 volume until next-to-last song.  Even more mad at myself. Bizarreness happened before, during, and after the show.  (Is it possible for events to be bizarre and banal at the same time? 'Cuz this was).  Everybody was nice to me.  "And that's all I've got to say about that."  Forrest Gump.

7. Mets got Orlando Hernandez.  Hope he has a good year.  His curve ball sure does move.

8. Jill DeFinis: If you decide to go to The Supersuckers, I will see you there.  Going with my boss, his wife, and Penny.  Romantics--white pants--Ha!  Does anyone remember Coz Canler of Tight Squeeze?  He is still in the Romantics, I believe.


9. Bob Mascaro: You are the best, too.

10. Ford Excursions really do roll over folks.  We saw one Sunday.  Ugly.  Stuff from inside the SUV strewn all over the ground--looked like a yard sale smacked by a sudden windstorm--clothes scattered every which way.  The Excursion--purely bad--they might have survived and they might not have.  I like Fords but not that one.

11. Went to Boston area with Ty's safety patrol group about three weeks ago.  With our NY-centered group (Jill D excluded), it is easy to overlook the birthplace of the American Revolution.  Your life WILL NOT be complete until you go to the north bridge at Concord and reflect on the courage of the Massachusetts farmers who poured out from their comfortable homes on the early morning of April 19, 1775 to risk their lives and fortunes fighting the most formidable army in the world for freedom and independence.

12. Also got a tour of Fenway Park where those despicable Bosox conduct their obscene rituals.  Longest ball hit there was by a fellow named Ted Williams.  ???  Longest grandstanding-admiration-of-homer was by M. ("Mr. ADD") Ramirez.

13. Eddie, Tak, and I discussed contemporary political and social issues for approx. 15 hours this past weekend at Expedition House.  White paper to follow in short order.  Eddie will be filing a dissenting report on Les Pauls through Marshalls.

14. One bright moment of Tallahassee debacle: I babbled into the mic that, whoever could identify the original "author" of the lines I pilfered for In The Wilderness (the line, "Let us cross the river, rest up in the trees"), would get $500 from the barmaid.  Once guy shouts out, "Stonewall Jackson's last words!"  Right.  Only in the South.  The barmaid welched though.

15. I got two Delta Moon CDs.  Atlanta band.  Purported to be bluesy (and artful at it).  They suck--insufficient testosterone.  Next up, Drive-By Truckers based on Lindahl's recommendation.  I looked at their packaging--real cool cartoons of zombies, graveyards, alcohol, low-rent debauchery, etc.  But they appear to be involved in the always-fatally-flawed three-guitar lineup, a bad sign.

16. Stopped and saw brothers, Jack and Frank, last weekend on the way to Tally.  Jack married young and had two kids.  Then divorced and married a lady with three kids (total five).  Then her sister died (in March 2006) and they've taken in her four (total nine kids).  Their house is about 1,300 sq. feet "under air."  Yeow!  Bros. are building onto the gun shop and building a spec house.  Expanding Jack's house is next, they say.  Dragged Eddie, Bobby, and Ian into Newberry to meet two of my "most worthy" brothers.  Carl was not there--doing the good deed of driving Dad and Mom to Ohio.

17. Dad's lung operation was pretty rough.  The recovery too.  But he is getting better and he and Mom are back up in Ohio for the summer.  I plan to go up to Jorma's long-weekend guitar camp in early fall.  David Lindley's class was filled up so I might go back to re-take Guy Davis's Piedmont blues class (that I failed last summer).  If you want to puruse (sp?) it, punch "Furpeace Ranch" into the internet.

18. "Don't try out nice guitars" is rule 279b of the Modern American Male Guidebook.  I unwisely challenged that rule in early April and succumbed to a 57 Custom Shop Les Paul Goldtop.  Put it on layaway when times were good.
Then April 15 came and brought with it a $6,000 tax bill/payment.  I eventually diverted enough money from my paycheck away from wife Penny's ever-vigilent eyes to pay the guitar off (total, about $2,775 w/sales tax), then found out that I can't play it at volume (read, wide-open loud).  The sustain never stops and each string's volume seems to be "equal" so I have to dampen strings with the palm of my right hand to slow them down or make them stop.  I love the rest of the guitar though; deep neck, beautifully exact intonation and fret-touch and finger-feedback.  Thought I'd have great fun with it, but so far, not.  Maybe it's my of-late pissy attitude in general.

19. Food for thought: Kevin McIver is the only constant between the beautiful work of The Bobs and DT Martyrs (latter lineup).  Hmmm.

Sunday, June 25, 2006 

Category: Travel and Places

The following is another vacation report to friends of a vacation Penny, Ty, and I took in July 2005.

 

Pt. I Summary: Drove up to Dad's farm in Ohio with Ty to go to Jorma Kaukenan's guitar camp.  Dog diareah'd Penny's Jeep.  Arrived and was quickly humiliated by all the better players in Guy Davis' class.

Pt. II: By mid-Saturday, I was past the point of over-soak on guitar licks.  I was just nodding my head and mumbling, "Got it," even though I had no idea how to cop what I was shown and no memory of how to mimic it later.  That mental overload was ok because my picking fingers were raw by then anyway.  I trudged over to the supply counter and bought finger picks ... more humiliation because I can't play with these prophilatics at all.  Picked Penny up from the Columbus airport Saturday evening (she flew in from a GAL conference in NYC).  No sympathy from her because she worked hard at the conference (where the hardest task, usually, is staying awake).  Had dinner at an Amish restaurant.  Plain but hearty.  Penny even indulged in the gravy.

Sunday was more of the same class humiliation except now the focus shifted from delta blues (a subject I know) to Piedmont blues (a subject I don't).  The Piedmont blues is a term that covers most all rural blues that is non-delta.  Can be from Georgia or New Hampshire.  It is "informed" by barrel-house and ragtime.  To get a handle on Piedmont was the primary reason I chose Guy Davis's class.  Piedmont uses an alternating thumb (like some country music) and a jangly-rythem-goes-to-melody finger picking style on the higher strings.  I sat and tried to absorb it and did (a little).  I figured I could practice it at home but I haven't yet--my disgrace.

Late Sunday afternoon, the camp puts on a "show" where all the players perform whatever they want and each class performs a set piece that they've worked on.  Most of the players are not performers or entertainers so most of the players' stage fright is palpable.  Having been humiliated constantly in class, I took the easy way out in the performance and bellowed through If This Is Love to the delight of all the uninitiated in that song.  Applause-junkie-whore ... f--k it, I was tired of being embarrassed.

All in all, the guitar camp was a great experience again.  Davis was real cool and a drop-dead great player of the stuff I want to learn. GE Smith taught an intermediate electric blues class.  He is a real nice guy.  Quiet but not snobby.  Told a few anecdotes when prodded.  I tossed up the propositon that our generation continues to buy new music but then asked how can our generation be reached as consumers?  He replied, "Yeah, there's not many clubs that book 55 year old white musicians."  I felt a little sorry for GE because it seemed to me that his class was 75 percent drag-the-beat-but-speed-up-the-tempo rythem (sp?) players and 25 percent check-my-cliche-licks-that-I-don't-play-with-love-or-reverence lead players.

Michael Falzerano (sp?) of Hot Tuna was another teacher.  Nice enough guy. Good player but not distinct enough for my taste.  The fourth teacher was a guy who specializes in open tunings.  I showed him my Wal-Mart tuning (R-5-R-5-R-3) and he deflated me a bit by saying, "Oh, that's open-C."  I couldn't figure it out instantly but a minute later realized that an open-C phrasing would have a fifth (G) in the bottom.  I was considering taking his class next year but besides irritating me with that open-C comment, I bought his CD which is about as hearty as no-fat milk.  Anyway, the guitar and bass players here ought to take a look at the camp for a good time.  It is at www.furpeaceranch.com.

Sunday, Ty-Boy had probably one of the greatest days of his then-eight years.  He went four-wheeling with my Dad, cousin Mark Markham, brother Carl, and Mark's (fine) new girlfriend in the backwoods of Meigs County. They were at it about four hours, wheeling through the words, visiting caves, crossing streams, climbing and descending STEEP hills and banks. Ty was allowed to drive--NOT a four-wheeler--but a "mule," a low-center-of-gravity vehicle. But he got to DRIVE all by himself in the woods. He has driven before, but only in Dad's fields with me or Penny--much more tame (and lame for him, I'm sure). Carl turned a four-wheeler over going up a steep bank and Mark said that Ty almost fainted for fear that "Uncle" Carl was going to die. (Carl bailed off in time).  When they got done, they all went to a country restaurant for white beans and corn-bread. 


Monday, the guitar-camp broke up at noon. I went four-wheeling with Ty sitting in front of me, driving.  We ran out of gas near Mark's place.  Mark gave us some gas and then we all went four-wheeling again--this time, Mark, girlfriend, Dad, Penny, Ty, and I--Carl had to head home to Fla.  I know now why Ty was raving about having such a great time the day before.  We covered much of the same territory.  Cousin Mark.  One of the coolest individuals I have ever known.  He has got to be sixty-one or so.  He has a thirty-five year old new girlfriend.  (Did I already say she was fine?).  When we ran up to a branch fallen across the trail, Mark says, "Doreen" [her real name], "Throw that over." She gracefully (and graciously) hopped off the four-wheeler and tossed the branch aside and jumped back on just as happy as can be.  Please God, give just one day of influence over such women to do my bidding.

Visited with Dad and Mom. Dad had his usual trove of great stories and observations.  We sat on the porch on his high hill with a long, wide view of the valley below and the hills beyond.  Ty-Boy caught fireflies.  Brother Frank arrived with nephew Jimmy late Monday night.  Tuesday, Frank, Dad, and I got up and had a manly breakfast--bacon, eggs, coffee, and toast.  Then Frank, Jimmy, and I went down to pound nails on Frank's house, a huge affair of about 3,100 sq. ft. "under air" with a porch on all four sides and an upstairs porch.  (Dad had to take Mom to the doc's in Parkersburg, W.Va., where Leslie Wimmer is from by the way).  We put in hurricane tie-downs on the porch-supports-to-the-roof-rafters (I don't know how to better describe it).  Jimmy brought up a cassette of that "Git 'er done" comedian and we listened to that about three times through.  Young people.  Don't know how to hold a conversation.  Would rather be diverted by any stupid drone/drivel/static than create and/or participate in a real-time conversation.

Wednesday, Penny, Ty, and I left Ohio and drove over to a school friend's house in Pennsylvania, near Pittsburgh.  She recently adopted a little girl from India. Penny and her friend gushed all over each other and the little girl for a day.  Upon reaching critical mass on girl-talk, I read O. Henry shorts on the porch. Late in the day, we all went to an old-time park where they had high swings that were common before the park departments became timid as a  result of weasel lawsuits.  Ty loved it.  The swing was so high, it took about seven seconds to complete a "swing cycle."

Thursday we drove down to the North Carolina furniture district.  Arrived about 3:00 p.m. Only went through one gallery ... with HALF A SQUARE MILE of furniture. Most everything was beautiful and everything was solid wood. Someday ....

Friday, drove through Asheville and over to Silva/Dillsboro North Carolina--not far from where Jill and Danny went for their honeymoon.  We have gone there every year for five years now and this time, Penny succumed to the dreaded Mountain Lot Disease.  Color me disgusted.  Color Penny estatic.  Does this woman not fully appriciate basic economics? I'm 52, the end of income is in sight, the housing bubble will burst before we cash out, the Chinese will stop buying our debt, the economy will collapse because we are a service provider--not a product maker, the voices in my head will direct me to become a hare krishna, and all before we pay off this f---ing mountain lot.

Saturday, we got up and started for home.  We mined for gold and valuable gems at a gold mine that was conveniently located by the side of the road.  Ty loves this.  We love him.  You do the math.  Dilly-dallied down US 441.  Hiked to a delicate waterfall located in the highest Ga. State Park.  Stopped at the roadside honkey-tonk overlooking Talulah Falls (by the way, Walter Cz's folks are from nearby), then drove down to Atl. to see Jim Johnson (who graciously waited for us since noon).  After playing a little on Jimmy's weak-ass Fender and Guild guitars, we went to a cool-as-heck restaurant with fine hippy college art school drop-out "chick" waitresses and rehashed old times.  Walter Cz stopped by and I surprised him with two big photos shot on old-school 35 mm from the video shoot for A. On Horseback.  They were good shots and Walt looked good (heck, we all looked pretty good back then).  (By the way, Walt still looks good today, "considerin'").  Walt promised me a cassette of a very early rendition of All Love All Gone from Flynn's with Salty on the Big Blow. James, remind him, would ya?  Went back to Jimmy's house and looked at pics of his Dad with Jimmy Demeret, Bing Crosby, Hogan, Snead, and others. Cool letters to his Dad too--written in that wierd Sinatra-Sammy Davis-Dean Martin-Peter Lawford "lingo."  Said good-bye to Jimmy and drove on down I-75. Sunday: home.

All in all, a pretty good vacation--and a real good time.

Sunday, June 25, 2006 

Category: Travel and Places

The following is a vacation report I wrote to friends about a vacation my wife, Penny, and my son, Tyler, took in March 2004.  For friends that have been lost to me for some time, this might catch us up some. 


Worked til about 2:30 on Monday. Drove down to Miami Int'l in a record one hour door-to-door, occasionally breaking out in a silly vacation song--"Mommy's on vacation, Daddy's on vacation, Tyler's on vacation too," etc.  Talked with some racing team guys returning to England from the 12 hour race at Sebring.  They remembered the one race I saw in about 1970 where a pair of four year old Ford GT-40s beat Andretti in a new Ferrari and several Germans in new Porches.  Later, I began work demolishing ten months of Atkins diet at airport Miami Subs.

Flight got off at 8:00 p.m. 747s are big and slow to take-off.  Watched one movie and three Dexter's Laboratory episodes.  Ty watched cartoons.  Fell asleep about midnight for 2-3 hours.  British Air has a video screen in the seatback directly in front of you so you can watch what you want from about 16 choices.  Unfortunately, when I woke at about 3 a.m., they had cut it off except for a map that tells you where you are.  They fly a route that curves on a flat map ("the great circle route").  Went real close to Nova Scotia, Greenland, and Iceland.  Had tailwind of 117 mph at one point and outside air temp of -57 degrees farenheit.  (Ok, so I'm naive--this is all very impressive to me).

We were flying into the sun so it was light by 3 a.m. Miami time.  Looked down over southern Ireland. Ty and Penny woke up.  I continued to refine my fake British accent (which Penny ignored to my chagrin).  Landed at Heathrow and met brother Frank and sister-in-law Adrianne.  Upgraded from a Ford Focus to a Volvo wagon (very wise decision--more room) and hit the road--actually the wrong side of the road.  Yes, driving on the left is tough but anyone can do it with a little concentration.

Got to our hotel in London and the "soaking" began.  We had booked our room through British Air and eighty-four dollars is a lot but Frank paid $165 for a non-reserved "walk up" room.  The rooms are small by American standards but everywhere we stayed, we had a shower.

Out to the British Museum.  Cold and windy.  Began sequence of chanting, "Wow, that's really old." Saw the Rosetta Stone, mummys, ancient artifacts, Roman stuff, lots of Egyptian stuff "liberated" from the Egyptians, etc.  Curiously, most of the items are catalogued in 19th century style, with the original old script writing near (or, in some cases, on) the item.  Frank and I agreed that British colonialism was not a bad thing.  Amongst other good points, the middle east was peaceful and progressive.  The British Museum is huge--at least 4 really big buildings--we had only seen the tourist-y one--and only 10 percent of that--when I hit the jet-lag wall.

Out to a pub for Brit food.  The next time someone says Brit food is no good, I will shift him/her into my "country counsin/urban stoop monkey trying to project image of a sophisticate" category.  Bangers and Mash are great (and only scratch the surface of Brit fare).  Forgot the nameof the "draw" Dave Fun suggested but I had some beer or ale thing that was real tasty (and no it is not warm, it is just not teeth-chillingly cold).  'Nother thing.  Here, the "soaking" really began in earnest.  Our dollar is worth about 0.56 pounds (sloppy-but-close-enough math, one pound equals two dollars).  The problem is that everything is priced as though the ratio is one-to-one.  Banger and mash lunch with beer--eight pounds.  No problem.  But sixteen dollars!!!???  Yeow!  Every time we sat down to fill and swill, it cost $50.  No wonder I spent way over $300/day, between the $135/night hotels and the $100 meals when we ate at the middle class restaurants, not to mention the $100 gas fillups, $10/day London traffic "congestion charge" and $16/day to park in London.  At the end I was saying to the local business criminals, "Here is my credit card. Soak what you need out of it."

Back to the hotel for a nap, then out to Convent Garden for dinner (100 pounds/$200 for five).  I had always thought that Richmond, Lancaster Square, Westminster, etc. were very far apart, but they are not.  It is more like NYC, Greenwich Village is one little area, upper east side is another little area.  It is like that--not nearly as far apart as Dania and Weston, for example.  The town is mostly a mix of imposing, stately, 18th and 19th century buildings.  Very impressive.  No wonder they thought they were the center of the world (and a case could easily be made that they were).

Day two.  Had a full English breakfast of eggs, ham/bacon, bangers (sausage), beans (yes!), toast, and coffee.  Then out to a tour bus on a very chilly, rainy, overcast day. Ty wanted to sit up top in the open air so brave Penny went up with him.  Eventually, the rest of us were shame'd into joining them.  Got screwed for $100 at an attraction called the London Doungeons where I had the only Pickett-fit of the trip.  Before we went in, I asked if there was anything "real" there.  They said yes but when we got inside, it was just a stupid Disney-like re-enactment of the plague and Jack the Ripper, etc.  I tried to walk out with dignity and temper intact, but they would not let us go so I said that I had been to Disney World, that there was nothing real here, that I had come from the USA and had only eight days in England and that this was wasting my valuable time, etc.  Because they wouldn't let us leave, I had to say this in front of the rest of our group of tourists (about 45).  When I did, they quietly escorted us out.

We quickly put that episode behind us and walked across the London Tower Bridge and over to the Tower of London.  It is not really a tower but is actually a ringed fortress (with many towers) and a castle in the middle.  We took a walking, guided tour.  Saw the crown jewels, where what the 19th century folks thought were the kid-princes' bones were found.  Saw where quite a few folks lost their heads, walked through the castle, saw real knights' and kings' body armour from the 13th and 14th centuries, saw hundreds of beautifully preserved guns, pikes, swords,and other fighting tools, and actual clothing from hundreds of years ago.  Continued chanting, "Wow, that's really old" (but history-sycophant that I am, I couldn't stop).

Frank assumed driving task and Adrianne navigated.  This permitted Frank to growl about missed turns without reservation of critisizing his older brother and allowed us to gaze out the windows without care for the left-hand thing.  They don't have many stop-lights there.  Instead they have "round-abouts" where everyone merges into a miniature Hollywood Circle and then races and cuts across to get to the street they want to get to -- a sort of cluster-f___-by-vehicle. 

 

By the way, they have some incredible vehicles there.  Ford markets at least three cars for which there is no American equiv.  Vans are tiny and narrow.  And there are some cars that are (seriously) no bigger than a port-a-potty on wheels (Frank's description, not mine, and Ty giggles like crazy about this)--two seats with an engine that must be under one seat because I don't see any other space for it.  They actively drive there--sort of like NYC.

Drove out of London at night.  Woke up for day three in a small country village--Chatham, I think.  Stayed in 14th century building.  Countryside like the most beautiful Georgia, or Saratoga, or New Hampshire spots you've ever seen AND THAT IS THE WAY IT IS ALL ACROSS SOUTHERN ENGLAND!  They mow out to the corners of the fields, no weeds grow up around the fences, back yards are called gardens with a reason: they are manicured!  Went into Norman-era country church with gravestones dating back to the 13th century.  Continuous Sunday services since 13-something A.D.  These little churches are everywhere you go--just like Dickens describes in his books.  Five minutes on the road and we ran across one of those little canal/waterworks you see in the picture-books, stopped and looked at it.  Eventually we quit stopping for this kind of thing because it is so common there.

Drove over to Canterbury and went throught the Cathdral where Richard Burton had Peter O'Toole murdered (or was it vice-versa?). Very, very impressive.  Gorgeous heavy architecture (sp?) and interior and religious (sp?) acruments.  The Anglicans are Catholics without the Pope so they go in for lots of symbolism and religious artifacts (not making fun here, that's just the impression of this Protestant-raised observer).  At least one king is buried there and many archbishops.  The cathedral is HUGE and takes at least two hours to just skim it.  One fellow--dubbed the "Black Prince" had to build a side-chapel to get dispensation to marry his father's cousin.  One fine thing, over there: they honor the local fallen soldiers with plaques enscribing their names for as long as the church stands.  Fitting tribute.  Later went to some excavations of the remains of the Roman section of the town unearthed during the Nazi bombings.  Intact flooring and walls, with many artifacts.  Great presentation too.

Then to Dover where we walked on the tops of the White Cliffs.  The Brits don't have hand-rails and park rangers telling you to stay back from the edge.  They have one small sign that basically says, "High Cliff -- If you fall, you will be hurt."  Really Great.  Ty racing up ahead on the cliffs sent Penny into a near state of apoplexy.  Of course, my only responsibility consists of intoning, "Oh Penny, he's a boy."  Clear, sunny day.  Could see a lot of French coastline.  Checked rental agreement--no travel to foreign countries.  Ferry-port under our feet and sheep-fields to our backs.  Beautiful.  Recommend.  Too late to go to Dover Castle.  Next time.  Drove along English Channel.  Ty, Addrianne, and I stuck our hands into the water and tasted it.  Predictably cold and salty.


Drove down to Hastings where the Norman Conquest more or less was decided.  The battlefield is now next to a little village called Battle. Walked the battlefield--very small.  Can see it all from one vantage point.  Only about 4,000 soldiers involved.  The ruins of a 13th century Norman abbey are there and the spot where the Saxon King allegedly fell is marked.  There is a boarding school there (you know--the Brit school system--kids sent away from Mummy and Daddy--wear ties and uniform jackets).  Still it was neat to watch them playing soccer in the slanting dusk sunlight on a chilly afternoon.  Stayed in a hotel with the Battle Abbey right outside our window.  Had dinner at Frank's urging at a place that served Belgian food.  We all passed out from pure pleasure.

Woke up on day four (if this is too long, print it and read in installments on the toilet).  Frank and/or Adrianne hit on the idea that we ought to get some coldcuts and bread (their bread is delicious) to save some money, so we did.  A lady told us about a nearby castle so we went.  Turns out it is one of the best preserved castle ruins in England.  Side note: had some knife graffiti from visitors in the 1800s.  Over-the-top gorgeous contryside. Also had a WWII pillbox on the grounds as it is near the coast and commands a view of a large valley.

Next, Churchill's home.  Most of the furniture is intact with lots of personal effects.  I revere Churchill as the greatest leader of the 20th century.  We all were in awe.  Best personal memory of the trip was watching Ty run down across 150 yards of English lawn to a little pond--seven year old boy running free in the sunlight--that's life.  And the "free" side of it due in part to Churchill.  Got lump in my throat reflecting on some of his oratory.

We were alternating Ty at night so Penny and I could have some private time together (a great suggestion by Frank and Adri).  Drove on.  Forgot where we stayed but next morning wasted 3 hours at British Army Air Corps Museum.  It is not the same as the Royal Air Force (stupid on my part--I was the one that picked it out) so we did not see one single Spitfire all the time we were there. 

 

Next, Salisbury, where we walked on an embankment put up by Iron Age people (Britons), inside which the Romans constructed a fort, and upon which the Normans constructed a castle, and which was later abandoned when the archbishop of Salisbury decided to move the cathedral and town about a mile away.  Then on to Stonehenge where I was disappointed to learn that the Druids probably had nothing to do with its building.  Then on to Bath, where there is a well-preserved, remarkably intact, Roman bath-house. We walked around quite a bit and (as in everyplace we visited, had a great time).  Bath has a lot of colleges and it was a Saturday night so the college kids were starting up for their Saturday night.  I get the impression that sex is less formal over there.  Not only does it just "seem" that way, but you see porn sold in the independent book shops.  Frank and I were standing on a main street in London--waiting on Penny and Adrianne--when he turned and looked into a bookshop display window.  There on the display shelf were 15 or so books--history, coffee-table, best-sellers, etc.--along with one open vagina cover fiction and one dominatrix fiction.  Also, the prostitutes leave picture-postcard advertisments in the telephone booths: "hotel visits, no rush."

'Nother thing: forget about finding and visiting the famous pubs/clubs.  The Marquee is closed and gone and the once-great Brit music mags are either gone (Melody Maker) or horribly morphed into disco/electonica swill.  I forgot to bring a copy of Mojo with me to check out shows and clubs so I saw nothing of Brit-rock history. 

That night we drove on to a small village and stopped for dinner at a pub (sometimes called a freehouse).  Ty and been wanting to play darts so after a great dinner (my last of bangers and mash--I finally got my fill), I talked to some guys at the pub and one of them offered to show us how to score etc.  (Everywhere we went the Brits were very friendly, even the ones with no commercial interest in us).  This guy's accent was very heavy so I was nodding my head and yeah-ing along at about a 50% comprehension rate for a while.  Ty and I were playing against him in a game of double-out 501.  Slowly I began to comrehend that he was telling me that he had been the doubles champion at prison!  Eventually he won and we thanked and retired.

The next day, I got up early and had another full english breakfast.  They still call little diners "greasy spoons."  It was near a train line with a station built in 1807 (not even close to historically significant over there).  A lady suggested we go over to a train yard in the next town where they maintain the steamers.  We did and were impressed by the heavyness of the locomotives and the difficulty (and danger) of working on them in the 18-19th centuries.  Amongst other things, somebody had get up real early to get the fires going and the steam up.  Onward to Monmouth in Wales.  Even more beautiful than what we already seen (which seemed impossible to us).  Stopped at a rural jumping-horse show.  Within five minutes and two miles, we drove on a one-lane country road through a stunning group of houses (less than a village, more like a corner) where they had a Royal Mail Box built into the stone wall, then (one mile later) on to the ruins of a Roman villa.  If you get out of the car every time this kind of sequence presents itself, you will only see 100 miles of England in a whole week.  It happens ALL THE TIME.

Next Oxford where we lucked upon an American student who took us through a chapel and told us a lot about the school system and Oxford.  Oxford is, according to her, several universities AT Oxford, not Oxford University (color me ignorant, but I didn't know that).  She was very helpful until I told her that Frank and I were of the opinion that British colonialism was a good thing.  She blanched and shut us down and ditched us.  Oh well, I was tired of her college-girl prattle anyway.  Stopped in a bed-and-breakfast halfway between Oxford and London.  Went out to a country pub. After another great dinner, Frank went over to the bar where 5-6 older gents had been drinking and told them he wanted to buy them a round because he appreciated the British committment to our action in Iraq.  They were very appreciative and said that the British people supported the American action (despite what the papers say).  They ended up buying Frank some drinks instead.  Adrianne, Penny, and I all wiped tears from our eyes in pride of Frank.

Up in the morning.  The farmer took Ty in a pick-up around the farm.  Showed him sheep, ducks, geese, etc. Then back to London (our last day in England).  By now, the accent that I had admired for many years was wearing on my nerves.  Think some of it was wearing on Frank too. He started to get in the mood for a Pickett-fit with a Brit taxi-driver who appeared to be driving us on a needlessly circuitous route to get to Dickens' house.  However, we didn't really have enough evidence to boil over so Frank had to let it go.  Dickens' house was great for me (with many thanks to Frank for foregoing the British War Museum to go to Dickens' house).  This was where he wrote Pickwick Papers and Great Expectations and where he lived during the early days of his well-deserved fame.  Has his writing desk and many pieces of furniture and artifacts.  Back to the British Museum (or was it first?) for more artifacts.  Out for one last Brit meal (though this one was really run by Czecks) then back to our hotel at Heathrow (where Frank shoveled out an all-time record $220 for one room for one night).

Our flight was kind-of early so there was still mist on the windows when I drove over to Hertz to check-in the car.  Apparently, I cut a guy off and he followed me into the parking lot to tell me my driving was "criminal."  Guess it was a real good thing that Frank did all the driving after the first day.  By the way, if you ever go, get an automatic.  We did.  It would be insane to shift with your left hand.  Flight back seemed to take three days.  Even Ty got his fill of cartoons.  When we got home, our front yard (huge) tree had blown down in a windstorm.  Some neighbors had cut a path to the front door and cut some branches to get it off the house.  Very nice of them.  Nevertheless, we were stunned.  Rented chainsaw, started out well, then buried it three times, yelled at Penny, guy came along and offered to saw it up and get the stump out for $300.  I figured, "Why not? I'm bankrupt now anyway."

Frank and Adrianne got a later flight, then had connections from NYC to Washington, then to Orlando, then to their home just outside Gainesville so they didn't get in until 2:30 a.m. Eastern time, which was 7:30 a.m. English time.  Brutal.

My pics are not that good but Penny's are digital and we haven't looked at them yet.  Apologies for overuse of the "I" word.  We all had a great time.  Penny and Ty were their usual great traveling selves.  Like every vacation we've ever taken, I realize how very lucky I am.  And Frank and Adrianne were absolutely perfect--adding so much to this vacation that we would not have done without them.  More and varied conversation.  More sites (we would never have gone to any cathedrals).  More travel.  Frank drives faster (and safer) than I do and Adrianne navigates with the precision and gravity of a bomber pilot.

Well, that's it. I'm sure I've forgotten some great things but oh well ....