We are on our way home from a lovely visit to the Yucatan.  We spent 10 days visiting Mayan ruins in the sub-tropical jungles, and enjoying the sun and surf along the Mayan Riviera. 

I have wanted to visit Mayaland since college, when I spent good deal of time studying Pre-Columbian art.  It was quite exciting to finally lay eyes on them.  They are all cleaned up, and very user friendly now, unlike the way they were describes to me 25 years ago by my professors.  Easy to get to and easy to enjoy.  

I was shocked at the number of tourists.  Of course, every picture of Chichen Itza I have ever seen has been void of people, so that was weird.  (Of course, thinking about it now, why would you take a textbook picture with goofy tourists in it?) 

I expected no one, as it is super hot and rainy this time of year.  Nevertheless, hotels and tours were booked full.  Also, there was way more Europeans than I anticipated.  I guess I was expecting mainly drunken college kids.

We stayed at an all-inclusive resort which is good, unless you are interested in local cuisine.  So imagine my disappointment at the mediocre cruise-like hotel food served buffet style meal after meal.  I did manage to get a little street food by the playa, and there were a couple good meals on "Mexican Night".  But all-in all it was not a culinary adventure.  I did experience the best Caesar salad I've had in years.  It was fantastico!  However, it was quickly followed by the worst Caesar, topped with a dressing that was clearly miracle whip based. 

Next to the Mayan ruins, we enjoyed the snorkeling the most.  Swimming with dolphins, sea turtles, colorful fishes (saw a gianormous parrot fish), sea turtles, and barracuda was stupendous.  We swam around in the sea, lagoons, and underground caves (called cenotes), which were amazing.  The pool was fine too, although in family friendly resorts like these you see way more of people that you really should.  (I'm speaking of both frequency and skin.) 

Let me say that it was super hot and humid, and in these conditions, clothing seems to be a hinderance.  (I told my kids if they didn't behave I would don similar pool side outfits while grocery shopping when we get home.)

Also there is a ton of ink on people.  I have never seen so many tattoos.  Now, I am not averse to the idea of body art at all, especially when it is artfully, and tastefully done.  But let me tell you…I saw weirder stuff here than I have ever seen, including in the Navy. 

For instance there were a lot of brand logos.  One guy had a huge Nike "swoosh" incorporated into an arm band.  I don't think he was affiliated with the company (and even if he was…weird!)  If the trend now is to tattoo your favorite shoe brand, then I am in trouble, because "Payless Shoe Source" has a lot of letters, and would be too expensive.     

Well, the tour is over, and I am bracing myself for my annual post-tour blues.  I will have to wait another year for this spectacle.

And what a spectacle it was.  Cheaters galore.  It was so shocking!  I was totally behind "the chicken", Michael Rasmussen.  I was nearly in tears when I heard he was pulled.  The saddest thing is that they lump Floyd in that group of cheaters, but he is so, SO, innocent.  It's crummy.  Read his book!

It was great anyway!   I love watching the tour early in the morning, live, then catching the evening expanded coverage.  It is the only time all year we watch TV during dinner!  If you happen to visit us during this time of year, you are immediately initiated into the tour lifestyle. 

Luckily, the Tour of California is ending in Pasadena this year, so we will get to see them live!  It should be fun, but alas, its 6 months away.  Meanwhile, I will run run run, as I have a 1/2 marathon coming up in August. 

We have had a star studded week or two.  First, the kids and I went to the Chinese theater to watch the Harry Potter kids get their hands, feet and wands imprinted in cement.  What a zoo!  We were there 2-3 hours early, and boy! Are we dumb!  The bleacher seats were claimed the night before, and the line wrapped all the way around the block…a very big block.   One brave member of our party did manage to get close, and got Emma Watson to autograph the book.  The rest of us got an eagle eye view from the top level of the Baja Fresh across the street.  Very cool.

Next, we got to go to the official presentation of Beckham to the LA Galaxy.  It was fun, and we got cool posters.  I really think this will do wonders for soccer.  We all think of it as a sport for kids, but when you watch the pros, it's a whole different ball-game (ha).

Then…we saw Floyd, and got to talk and have our stuff signed.

Then…the kids ran into Miley Syrus (Hannah Montana) in front of the cheesecake factory.  Much squealing occurred.   

Then… we got to see the Queens of the Stone Age with special guests Eagle of Death Metal in concert.  WOW!  What a great show.  I am still jiggling.    If you are not a fan, at least check out the Eagles…too fun! 

What could possibly happen next?

Rock On! 

It's  Tour de France time again.  Hooray!!

Why do I love it so?  The scenery, the men in tight pants, the athleticism, the history, the fans, the men in tight pants…Oh  welcome glorious July!!

Some day, I will be there and follow the tour stage by stage , camping along the way, and cycling along.  But now, I am able to watch  on VERSES, practically all day long.  I along wake up early to watch it live on important stages, or if something exciting could happen. 

Today, there was a huge crash right before the finish line, which today, was in Belgium.  It was radical.  If you don't watch, you should check it out.

In honor of this fantastic day in biking, I will present to you a recipe for "Belgium Waffles"

Belgian waffles are no different than an average waffle, but they are made in an iron with deeper holes.  They didn't really become popular until the 1960 World's Fair in Brussels, Belgium, when a restaurateur served waffles with fruit and cream.  Four years later they were the most popular attraction in the Belgium Village of the 1964 New York World's Fair. 

Serves: 4

Prep-Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 30 minutes

1[1/2] cups cake flour

2[1/2] tsp. baking powder

1 TB. sugar

[1/2] tsp. kosher salt

3 eggs, separated

4 TB. melted butter

1[1/2] cups buttermilk

1.  Preheat waffle iron according to manufacturer's instructions.  Triple sift flour, baking powder, sugar, salt, and set aside.

2.  In a separate bowl combine the egg yolks, honey, oil, and buttermilk.  Whisk together thoroughly.  In another bowl, whip the egg whites until they are stiff. 

3.  Pour the egg yolk mixture into the flour and stir together briefly.  A few lumps are okay.  Add the stiff egg whites and fold together gently until just combined.  Cook batter in a waffle iron, following the manufacturer's instructions.  Serve immediately with butter and syrup.

These waffles are crying out for fruit!  Slice some fresh, ripe peaches or nectarines and serve them on the side.  Or top them with a mixture of fresh ripe berries and a little sugar.  Or use your favorite jam or marmalade as a topping. 

PS…Dear Team Discovery…if you need a chef, call me!  I can make these waffles with protein powder and whole grains!!!

The kids went off to camp this week, and although we had planned to go backpacking in their absence, I have too much stink'n work, and so we're just staying here.    We did have a fantastic dinner Saturday night though.

I am currently writing about ancient food, and India has been coming up a lot.  Whenever I right about food, I always crave the subject at hand.  So naturally, I have been craving curry.  There is a good spot here in Old Town, but I was in need of a change of scenery, so we went out to the beach.

On Santa Monica Blvd, right near the water, we found Gate of India.  Dang!  It was the best Indian food we have had on this continent.  No lie.  I was stunned.  You must partake if you get the chance.

So, with a belly full of Madras, we hit the record store on the way home so I could pick up some sitar music.  Now I am back at work, still reading about ancient cardoons, but with atmospheric music.

We just got back from Las Vegas.  I was there last about 10 years ago.  My, has it changed.  There are many more hotels now, and they are all bigger, and still growing.  They are getting nicer, too.  I am personally a fan of the Wynn.  It's nice to know that if I need  $400.00 Louis Vuitton belt, I can just pop down to the lobby to grab one.

Our purpose was Spamalot, with a Phantom chaser.  We are theater fans, and both shows were great.  The versions were shortened per some sort of LV ordinance. Apparently we are not allowed to be away from the gaming tables for more than 1[1/2] hours.  There were no intermissions, and some songs we knew from the soundtracks were not included.  But regardless, both shows were fantastic!  If you get to Vegas, be sure to see them both.

But do not...I repeat...DO NOT...bother to witness the pirate show outside Treasure Island. 

We all agreed, the 10 and 13 year olds included, that it was absolutely the worst show of any kind we have ever seen.   It was so bad, we are afraid that watching it may have actually made us dumber.    It was stupid, pointless, lame, and completely inappropriate, despite the hundreds of kids present.  Of course, when one brings kids to Vegas, one shouldn't complain.  It is, after all, a pretty sinful place.  

Normally we would have walked out during such an abomination of theater.  Unfortunately we were trapped.  Crowds line The Strip an hour before the performance to get a good view, and we did too, because we are sheep.  People are packed in so tightly that they faint (saw it).   And security guards block the easy exit ways.  It was like some sort of horrible trap.   I was expecting Nazis to pop out.  I am comforted in the fact that my children recognized the suck-i-tude of the show right away. 

The rest of the trip was mostly spent swimming (it was only 105°). We also saw Hoover Dam (love that dam tour!) .   Kids had a great time, although the cigarette smoke just about killed them.  We are very spoiled here in So Cal. 

I do not gamble, as I am a tight wad.   I was just there for the entertainment...and the food.  Lots of great chefs have restaurants in Vegas, and while they are all great, nothing compares to a well-run buffet.  After all, I can eat at Spago whenever I want.  But when can I hit an all-you-can-eat- buffet dinner for 11.99?   Never, that's when. 

It was Hog Heaven!    

Now...off to the gym...

I spent the week at Garfield high school.  I was a little nervous, as I usually work with 3rd-5th graders.  But it turned out to be way cool.

If you live in LA, you may have seen Garfield on the news, as their auditorium (a historic building) was burned by a crazy person a few weeks ago.  They were deep in re-build mode when I visited, which was great. 

The school, like every other one in town, is a fortress, but once you penetrate the fence, it's a haven of knowledge.  There were really great and caring teachers, and fun, smart young adults.

Also, atypically, I had several of the same classes all week.  This was a bit of a pain, because it forced me to change my shtick, so as not to bore the poor kids to death.  But it was a blessing in disguise, as I made two new killer recipes, very healthy, and darn good.  (See below).

The weird thing about high school is that while the girls all look like high school girls, a good proportion of the boys look like men.  Ahhhh...youth!

Red Veggie Salad

5 cups of your favorite vegetables shredded and chopped.  Use spinach, red chard, romaine lettuce, radishes, Red bell peppers, and green onions. 

1/4 cup olive oil

2 TB. balsamic vinegar

1 TB. each chopped oregano, thyme, and mint

2 cloves garlic

1/4 cup blackberries, smashed

2 roasted beets, chopped

1/2 cup dried cranberries

1/2 cup sliced almonds

Place the oils and vinegar, herbs, garlic and berries in a bowl.  Whisk it around until it is well combined.  Add all your shredded and chopped veggies, and toss it like a salad. 

Divide the mixture between the four salad bowls, then top with cranberries and  almonds.   

Cracked Wheat Veggie salad

2 cups cooked cracked wheat (follow package directions)

3 cups assorted veggies, such as romaine lettuce, spinach, bell peppers, cucumbers, sweet potatoes,  carrots, and green onions

1/4 cup Olive oil

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

1 roasted sweet potato

1 TB. chopped thyme

2 cloves garlic

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/4 sliced almonds

1/2 cup golden raisins

Combine the oil, lemon juice, potato, herbs, garlic, and spices in a bowl and whisk together.  Add wheat, all the shredded and chopped veggies, and toss it like a salad. Top with raisins and almonds.

It's that time again.  Every Spring I work for the Los Angeles Unified School Districts Nutrition Network, as part of their "Chefs in the Classroom" program.  I visit 2-3 classrooms on each visit, 3-4 times a month.  I explain the food pyramid, show them how much sugar is in soda, and how much fat is in French fries, them we cook a recipe together.  Usually it is an all-veggie salad-like dish.  Lately we have been making an Asian-inspired salad. 

The emphasis is on choosing dark, colorful veggies, so I bring an assortment of colors with me.  I show them the veggies, and ask if they know the names.  The only one they routinely know is carrots.  Everything else is a crap shoot.   They identify yellow peppers as pumpkins, purple cabbage as onions, and radishes are usually apples or cherries.  It is a little disheartening.  But I have to remind myself that not everyone cooks at home these days, and even fewer chop up there own salad anymore.  So, good thing I'm around! 

I think the program is really having an impact.  The schools that get visits also receive the "crop of the month".  Growers ship cases of fruits and veggies to the schools for the kids to try.  I wish the program were mandatory, but only a few schools get the grant.  There are so many overweight kids and adults today...if you doubt me, just go to any theme park.  It's even true here in LA, where image is everything!   So...I continue on my mission, spreading nutritional info, one chubby kid at a time.

Last week I went to Vernon St Elementary and saw third, fourth, and fifth grade classes.  This school is across the freeway from USC...not the most savory neighborhood.  But the school was great.  Really great.  Of course, like every inner-city school, it is a fortress, with fences, and locks, and parent volunteers guarding every entrance.  The custodians were super nice, the teachers were super nice, and the kids were well behaved.  What else could a chef want?  

Well, I could have done without the CODE-BLUE LOCK DOWN at around 1pm.   A police chase was circumnavigating the school, and all kids were brought in from the playground PE classes, and everyone was locked in their classrooms.  Not that unusual from what I understand.  But the situation was cleared quickly, and there was no actual impact to the school.   Funny.  With all the hyper-paranoia surrounding security and protection from terrorism in recent years, let us not forget that we are in just as much danger, if not more, right here at home.

Check out "my pics" for pictures of the 5th grade class at Vernon.

Here is the recipe we made.  Most of the kids are Mexican, so an Asian flavors are usually new to them.  I have been across town at mostly Asian schools, and there, I usually change up this dressing and wrap it in a tortilla.   I use lots of green leafy vegetables, like chard, spinach, romaine, and absolutely no iceberg!    Wrap it in rice paper for spring rolls!

Asian Style Veggie salad                 serves 4

Ingredients

• 5 cups of your favorite vegetables shredded and chopped.  Here are some suggestions:   Carrots, celery, cucumbers, radishes, bell peppers, spinach, red chard, purple cabbage, Napa cabbage, bean sprouts, broccoli, zucchini, green onions.  Whatever you like!!

• 1/2 cup veggie oil
• 1 TB. sesame oil
• 3/4 cup rice vinegar
• 1 cup chopped cilantro
• 2 tsp. each  grated ginger, chopped garlic, sesame seeds
• 2 cups chow mien noodles

Method

Place the oils in a large bowl.  Add the vinegar, cilantro, ginger, garlic and sesame seeds.  Whisk it around until it is well combined.  Add all your shredded and chopped veggies, and toss it like a salad. 

Divide the mixture between the four salad bowls, then top with chow mien noodles.  

Now, enjoy a super-healthy snack!

I've been saying it all along...now the New York Times agrees.  Read this article 

http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/08/us/08default.html?_r=1&oref=slogin
 
Its all about the trauma of paying back student loans on a chefs salary...

Then you can buy my book and learn how to do it without school!  

(Never miss a chance to plug!)

Today I went on another pastry expedition with my friend, Sandy.   She, too, is a former pastry chef and culinary instructor.  She is also damn smart and funny.    We are both picky about our pastry.  After lunch at Nicole's last week, (on El Centro in South Pasadena),   I was wishing I had tried their Tarte Tatin.   So we met today to try it.  We also feasted on their excellent pecan tart, too dense flourless chocolate cake and lemon tart from what seemed to be bottle lemon juice.  The peacn tart was so good because, as Sandy  pointed out , it has good balance of sweet glucose –y filling.  Not too much, as is often the case.    I am still in search of the perfectly baked tart or pie crust, that is, baked on the bottom in the center all the way through.  It seems to be a spot bakers ignore.  This one was damn close.   TheTarte Tatin was very nice, although it was a day old for sure.  Re-heated, the crust ( a nice puff pastry) was sogged out.  The apples were perfectly caramelized though.  

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The experience reminded me that Sandy  and I have a Tarte Tatin past. 

I Love this dessert, and I make a wicked one.  It is also one of my favorite desserts to teach. The method is so counterintuitive that that it always freaks my students out. Inevitably someone will tell me I've forgotten a step, or an ingredient, or a page of the recipe, because it just looks and sounds so wonky. But it works every time, and that makes me feel magically superior. 

The dish is French, and it can be found on any French Bistro menu, anywhere in the world. As the story goes, two sisters, Caroline and Stéphanie Tatin, had an Inn in the Loire Valley, where they created tarte des demoiselles Tatin. I have heard many apocryphal tales about this recipe, including the one which claims it was originally a failed attempt to make an American style apple pie. Regardless, it is a classic, and worth learning to impress your friends.

I first made this dish when I was in training. I apprenticed under a Swiss pastry chef who told me that never, under any circumstances, was I to use red apples for Tarte Tatin. Red apples are mealy, and turn to mush when cooked. I happily complied, not knowing anything myself, except which side of the bread my grade was buttered on. 

Then, 10 or so years later I found myself working with Sandy.  One day, whilst I was toiling over a case of granny smiths for my tarte tatin, she saw me and said something to effect of, "what the hell are you doing using green apples for the Tarte Tatin?  Don't you know anything? They should always be red delicious!...Stupid!"   Or something to that effect. 

Since I was now teaching, and was supposed to be in some sort of authoritative position, I set out on a mission to find the truth. I talked with vendors and local farmers, and I discovered that apples in the US are grown mainly for lunch boxes. They are all firm, and meant to be eaten out of hand. While there are some differences in the way our apples cook up, the variations are nowhere near as drastic as their European counterparts. Armed with this new information, I decided to try the recipe using an apple that I enjoyed eating. 

My favorite lunch box apple is the Fuji. It is not too sweet, not too tart, always crisp and juicy. When I bake it, the shape holds up. What's more, the Fuji apple is generally available in California year 'round. When autumn arrives, and specialty apples appear at the Farmers Market, I'll use the ones that taste crisp and fresh, with good balance of acid and sugar. But as soon as those apples disappear, it's back to my old pal, the Fuji.

The Recipe

10-12 Fuji Apples ( or whatever...geesh!)

1 cup granulated sugar

6 TB (3 oz.) unsalted butter

1 (10-12-inch) circle of pastry dough (puff, croissant, sucreé, pie, or sugar cookie dough all work)

The first step in making Tarte Tatin is to peel the apples. You'll need approximately 10-12 apples to fill a 10-inch pan. Please, use a peeler for this job. Do not try to impress me by using a paring knife the way your grandmother taught you. The paring knife takes too much of the good apple off with the peel, and it takes too long. Remember, in a professional kitchen, time is money. In your home, it's just time, but you have too little of it anyway, so get the peeler.

The next step is to slice the apple. While many classic examples of this tart use halved apples, I prefer to quarter them. It looks prettier by the slice this way. I never bother with an apple corer. They rarely pull the core out completely, and because apples aren't perfectly symmetrical, they usually pull out a lot of good apple too. To remove the core, I quarter the peeled apple. Then I lay the quartered apple on its side and cut the core out of each quarter with an angled slice of my chef knife. The speed of this method is most appreciated when you have a case of apples to prep. 

Once the apples are cut, they are going to start turning brown. Many a clever cook has thought to keep them in "acidulated" water, which is water with lemon juice in it. This slows down the oxidation. The problem is that the apples absorb the water. As the tart cooks, the water is released, causing the apples to stew and turn to mush rather than caramelize. Since the goal is to cook the apples to a golden brown anyway, who cares if they turn a little brown now?   Not I.

Ideally, Tarte Tatin should be made in a 10-12 inch sauteuse, which is a straight sided sauté pan. If you have a lot of disposable income, you can buy a special Tarte Tatin pan, usually available in copper. If you have neither of these pans, any large, oven proof sauté pan will do. Spread 1 cup of granulated sugar evenly on the bottom of your pan. Dot 6 tablespoons (3 ounces) of cold butter on top of the sugar. Now, although there has been no actual cooking, it is time to add the apples. Starting in the dead center of the pan, arrange three apple quarters on their ends, with the core side facing the center of the pan. Arrange all the remaining apples around these three, in the same manner, until they are packed tightly into the pan, and resemble a blossoming flower. The apples should be very snug. If there is any room to cram in a few more apples, do so. As they cook, they will shrink, and if there aren't enough apples, the finished tart will look skimpy. 

Now it is time for the cooking. Bring the pan to the stove, and place it over a high flame. Let it cook undisturbed, until the sugar and butter is liquefied and bubbling around the apples (about 30 minutes). You can shake the pan, or turn it around from time to time if you get nervous, but don't stir the contents. (This is the point when most students lose faith. Perhaps it will comfort you to know that I have made Tarte Tatin hundreds of times, and have never seen it burn at this stage.)  When the sugar has liquefied, turn down the flame to medium and continue cooking until the color begins changing to light caramel. During this time, if you notice that the pan is cooking unevenly, rotate it on the burner. 

When the light caramel color appears, turn the heat back up to high. This is the stage that I have seen burn, so watch carefully as it cooks. Remove it from the heat when the caramel color is dark amber. Set the pan aside to cool for 15-20 minutes. The caramel will be dark, but the apples poking out the top will probably look dry and uncooked. Not to worry!

While the apples cool, it is time to roll out your dough. The type of pastry dough you choose is a matter of some debate. Recipes vary wildly, from puff pastry, to pate sucrée, to good old pie dough. My personal preference is for croissant dough, which is flaky like puff pastry, but flavored with yeast. It's your choice. In the end it doesn't really matter if you possess the skill to create your own dough from scratch, or the skill to drive to the market and purchase frozen dough. What does matter is that you cook it right. 

Roll the dough out into a circle that is one inch larger than your pan. To roll the dough in a circle, use plenty of flour on your work surface (professional chefs call it the "bench") and turn the dough clockwise a little after each pass with the pin. This will not only help to keep it round, but it will also signal you early if the dough starts to stick to the bench. Compensate with extra flour if this happens. The dough should be about 1/4-inch thick.

Lift up the dough and place it on top of the cooled apples. Tuck in the edges of the dough between the pan and the apples. This will give a nice rim to the tart when it's finished.

There is no egg wash or glaze on the dough, because the entire tart will be flipped over when it's done, and no one cares what the bottom looks like! Place the pan into the preheated 350 degree oven and bake until the dough is dark, golden brown, about 30-40 minutes. Do not be afraid to bake this dough dark. The most common mistake made with Tarte Tatin, in my opinion, is undercooked dough. After all the time and trouble just put into preparing the apples, don't mess it up now!

While it should be served warm, let the tart cool to room temperature when comes out of the oven. It needs to cool so that the caramel will solidify, and the whole thing can be inverted with minimal mess. Let it sit for at least 30-60 minutes.  Loosen it from the pan by placing it on the burner over a medium flame for a few seconds. Give the pan a jiggle, and when it loosens, it's ready to unmold. Place a serving plate or cutting board on top, and flip it. Don't flip it too fast, or you may be hit with flying caramel. In fact, you may want to do this over a sink. 

Slice the tart when it's cool, and then re-warm it in the oven (not the microwave) just before serving. The dish itself is quite sweet, and certainly doesn't need chocolate or caramel sauce, or even sweetened whipped cream to enhance it. I like a dollop of cold sour cream or crème fraiche to cool and counterbalance all that caramel. However you serve it, do it with pride. You just worked really hard!

Hey...

I just posted a bunch of pictures from the Navy trips, if your