So they finally arrived: the artists from abroad. And with them came the REAL beginning of my internship. Susanne from Germany, Doris from Hongkong and Wedhar from Indonesia. We all live together at Titus' house, So i had to move into the children's room, finally surrounded by toys again. Back where i belong.
Susanne was the first to arrive, so i took her on a walk through Naha and showed her some interesting sites. We are fine with each other, joking and goofying around. I met Doris and Wedhar first on the gintengai matsuri. Actually i like to do that translation and guiding stuff, it's pretty much some exercise for me too. But i always end up mixing languages, not knowing in what face i have to speak in what language. All day talk between me, Titus and the artists is mostly in english, so we have nearly no problems communicating.

The first day we went on a trip with two other volunteers, who were surprisingly able to speak fluent english and Ishigaki-san, who is also an artist for wanakio, drove the second car for us. So we were 3 artists from abroad, one japanese artists, Titus (artist, art education professor, Maejima Art Center director, wanakio curator, my host) and 3 volunteers, two cars, a tiny, but interesting island.


First we went to Nanjô, which is an early castle of the Ryukyu culture, made by a warlord in the 14th century. The actual ruins give quite an impression on how the logic of that building worked. looked a little like a mace. It was completely covered by huge snails and some impressive gashumaru trees. That kinda tree happens to completely amaze me everytime i see it. It seems unearthly, some kinda UFO from an extraterristic race. while growing, the gashumaru drops slim root strings from it's aces, which, as soon as they reach ground (or stone or whatever) start to grow wider and thicker til it becomes another log. At some status you just can't say, if it's one tree or a whole huge organism of different plants. One tree becomes a complete jungle. It is said fairies would dwell inside those tress. I truly believe it.

gashumaru tree


We continued our route to the holy beach, where the Ryukyu gods are said to have arrived at. Hermit crabs and stick insects. We had traditional okinawan food in an awesome kinda tropical tea house and went to see some more gashumaru and a beautiful garden.
While everyone went to see Seefa utaki, the holiest site for Ryukyu culture i was waiting outside. The most important point on Seefa utaki is a huge rock, which, but whatever unearthly force was split into two pieces, with an incredible clear cut. The opening is a triangle shaped gate, through which one can enter a small narrow space, like a natural chamber. The chamber walls are made of stone and plants, but there is a window like vent, allowing a view onto the pacific ocean. Right in the center of this panorama lies Kudakajima, the island fo the gods. Overwhelming. Through the rock stone drips constantely water, which is considered holy and for that catched in again holy stone hollow-ware. In former times only members of the royal family and the priestesses were allowed to see the holy sites. In all Ryukyu culture, women are said to have a direct connection to the gods and for this they are worshiped as holier than men. Sisters are the guardians for the brothers and the men would ask their wifes for divine council.

After having some home made cake and coffee we hurried to reach a traditional okinawan wood house, one the few that survived the war on okinawa.

At about 6 pm we spend a lot of money to prepare for the barbecue on Titus' veranda. I was doing my first pasta salad in my life (was good) with cucumber, tomatoes, cresses, avocado, mayonaise and garlic. Raw vegetables with salsa and huge and delicious amounts of fish and meat. Happy northern island jungle chicken.
Beer and awamori, talking about different culture's ghosts and Wim Wenders veranda.
Susanne, Doris and Wedhar


Titus the BBQ Master