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I was sitting in the ocean on Friday with only a couple of other guys out in the water and noone very close by. i was at 52nd street in Newport Beach where i very rarely surf due to a few bad apples. It was gorgeous and calm with clear blue-green water and 2 to 4 foot waves. It was fast but there were barrels to be had if you picked a good one. I had some things on my mind that were taking my attention away from this beautiful moment, and I was getting really bummed out about something in particular. A guy paddles over to where i am, and I nod a hello. He looks around us and then at me and says simply, "Bitchin day..." Ahhh perspective... I looked up and saw a sky threatening rain but giving ample blue through the elaborate cloud pattern. It was artistic. I was warm in my wetsuit, and with the light crowd, and i had already caught four or five fun waves in less than a half an hour. I thank the moustachee-ode stranger that reminded me of where my head should have been. Surfing consistently facilitates a better perspective. Surf
5:06 PM
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