PART ONE: Tuesday, March 3, 2009
The first of March brings about a turning point in my snow
activities. After three solid months of ripping through endless powder
lines at ski areas like Highlands, Vail, Breck, Keystone, Telluride,
Steamboat, and Monarch, I slowly withdraw myself from the chairlifts
and begin to think big..."teener" big.
For my first big mountain climb of the spring season, I chose a
local classic: James Peak. This prominent mountain west of Denver is
named after Dr. Edwin James, the botanist who happened to be the best
climber of Stephen Long's expedition of 1920. Among many prominent
climbs, James is most known for his climb Zebulon Pike's "highest peak",
on which he made the first successful summit of a 14er in Colorado.
While the formal naming of that peak went to Pike, the peak that was
named after James is no less important. In fact, with its intimidating
east face complete with 5 classic snow routes, I believe it holds a
much more important place in Colorado mountaineering history than Pikes
Peak.


James Peak, as my friend "Snowsavage" would say "Mini-AK, bro!"
On Tuesday, March 3, I made a solo attempt of James Peak. Because I
was alone, I had no intention of challenging any of the couloirs on the
east face. Instead, I planned to skin up St. Mary's glacier and up the
broad south shoulder of James Peak, and stop to check out the
conditions of the couloirs.
I arrived at the trailhead around 10:30 and the weather was very
clear. However, as soon as I started up the glacier, I encountered the
wild winds that the front range is known for. I pressed forward, and as
I crested the top of the glacier, I encountered two mountaineers taking
a rest on their hike down. I stopped to talk to them a bit, exchanging
stories. I was excited to hear about their successful climb of the
Trough Couloir of Long's Peak last week. As for James Peak, they told
me they were planning to attempt a climb of the east face, but turned
back due to high winds. I thanked them for the information and
continued onward.
The bane of any skier or boarder attempting this route is the mile
long flat, grassy tundra between the top of St. Mary's Glacier and the
foot of James Peak. The last time I had been here, during the much
snowier winter/spring of 2007, we were able to skin across. This time,
I had to remove my splitboard and hike across the meadow.


Looking across the grassy tundra. Mt. Bancroft is on the left and James Peak on the right.
Although the hike was annoying, the scenery was beautiful, as I had
some great views of surrounding mountains like Evans, Bierdstat, Grays,
Torreys, Quandary, and even Pikes Peak far away in the distance.


Rare triple-photo: Gray's Peak, Torrey's Peak, and Quandary Peak


Pikes Peak, over 100 miles away!
Finally, I reached the foot of James Peak and was able to skin
again. Unfortunately, the snow again ended after the first steep pitch.
Since I wanted to check out the couloirs, I scrambled up to the
southeast ridge to continue the climb on foot. As I groveled up the
ridge, I first checked out Starlight, which had a few rocks in the
middle of the entrance. Then I found the entrance to Shooting Star.
Somehow, I had missed Sky Pilot, which I can never seem to find.


Gaining the ridge for the first view of James Peak's east face couloirs
Finally, I gained the summit of the mountain around 2:30. Although
I've climbed this same ridge and splitboarded the Starlight Couloir
before, I had never been to the summit until now. I celebrated my
achievement and snapped some more photos of the Gore Range to the west,
Arapaho Peak and Longs Peak to the north, and I even think I could see
Mt. of the Holy Cross far away to the southwest.


Summit achieved


Shooting Star Couloir?


Clear view of Denver!


Is this Mt. of the Holy Cross? Someone help me out
The descent was less than perfect. The heavy winds had scoured the
shoulder of the mountain, and most of my turns were made on the
hardpacked snow. Then, as I had dreaded, I had to walk back across the
grassy tundra to the glacier. On St. Mary's Glacier I encountered the
most interesting snow of all: sharp frozen waves of sastrugi.
Because the top of the glacier wasn't steep enough to toe-side my edge
all the way down, I was forced to make turns all the way down. If I
could describe it like anything I've done before, I'd say it is like
trying to water ski on Lake Michigan.


Battling the relentless sastrugi
PART DEUX: Sunday, March 8, 2009
This time around, a partner recruited me to take the same ascent
route, but attempt to descend the Shooting Star. This time, thanks to
daylight savings time, we had more daylight and an earlier start.
Unfortunately, 40 mph wind gusts made for an entirely different
experience. On the glacier, the easterly wind was blowing snow straight
down up on us, it was all that we could do to keep pressing forward, up
the glacier and across the tundra.


Three skiers moving up the glacier ahead of us


Battling the wind up the glacier
On the south slope, there was a little bit more snow than there was
five days earlier. Although I was able to skin up much farther than
before, I still had to skin over some rocks that were barely covered
with the light dust.


View back towards my partner on the grassy tundra
We continued to press ahead, and the time was burning away. Because
of our battles with the intense wind, it took almost six hours to move
as far as it would normally take four hours. Finally, just a few
hundred feet below the summit, we turned back. In the words of my
partner "I felt a wind gust actually PICK ME UP OFF THE GROUND!"
Although I was pretty bummed about aborting Shooting Star, I thought
we could at least do Starlight. However, my partner reminded me that we
would again be battling the wind as well as waning daylight when trying
to hike back up out of the bowl below the east face. Cutting our
losses, we descended the shoulder and made the all-too-familiar walk
across the tundra, and painful descent down the glacier.


Close up shot of the east face


View of the entrance to Starlight Couloir


Superstar--the steepest of all the couloirs on the east face


Pretty
cool picture of Arapaho Peak in the foreground, and the flat-topped
mountain behind it that reminds me of an ancient Mayan Temple: Long's Peak
After my third trip up this route, I've written it off. If I had to
advise anyone who is attempting the east face couloirs, I'd suggest the
route from Mammoth Gulch out of Rollinsville. From that route, you get
the advantage of actually seeing and climbing the couloirs, and can
make the descent directly back to your car without dealing with the
annoying flat tundra.
(and now...some new trip reporting tricks I've developed using this cool software my girlfriend bought me )


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