The 'N' Factor

                             by Zurain Imam

             
"We were very apprehensive about coming to Karachi and didn't know what we were getting into," said Nickie Ali during the recent launch of the first Nickie & Nina boutique in Karachi on main Zamzama.

"However all the Karachi designers have been very helpful," added Nina Junaid, Nickie's design partner and sister. "I think the very fact that Rizwan Beyg, Bunto Kazmi, Amir Adnan, Faiza Samee and Deepak Perwani showed a gesture of welcome and repeatedly offered assistance was very sweet. I think everyone was genuine," she added.

Other guests and supporters who packed the 700 square feet space — designed by Umer Rauf of Subculture — included Mahnoor Baloch, Maria Wasti, Atiya Khan, Adnan Siddiqi, Haroon and Ayesha Toor, Amir and Huma Adnan, Shayainne Malik, Imran Kureishi, Umar Sayeed, Mohsin Sayeed, Arshad Tareen, Tazeen Hasan, Nomi Ansari, Usman Dittu, Nadia Hussain, Shaheen Saeed, Rubab and others.

The low-ceiling, softly-lit boutique space was decorated with flower arrangements using imported lilies, chrysanthemums, freesia and roses from Lahore, artistically blended with artificial flora. The boutique has a space for private bridal consultations and an amply sized mirrored dressing room with a sitting area. The launch was organised by Qasimyar Tiwana.

Models who wore Nickie & Nina at the event included Rubya Chaudry, attired in a seas moss Grecian three-tiered deconstructed and frayed ensemble; Fawzia in a Chinese red sleeveless; Gia Ali in a baring blue grey concoction; Sophia Khan in a lightly embellished yellow block print piece and Sunita Marshall in a salmon number with fern-like turquoise lining speckled with diamantes. All the models were happily allowed to keep the outfits that they had chosen to wear.

Nickie and Nina say they like to use Pakistani fabric like chiffon and light silks for summer. One of the strongest collections was the white one using a combination of pure and raw silks, chiffon and satin, inspired by ethnic kundan jewellery juxtaposed with modern crystal motifs. Collar shapes included halters, deep V's and Nehru. Another strong capsule was the noir, Mexican inspired pieces with their use of chunky beadwork and turquoise embellishments.

Ancient motifs melded onto slim modern silhouettes and both long and short shirts created a sophisticated aura. "Black and white is our favourite colour palette as is orange and yellow, although we haven't brought the latter to Karachi. We have used both very short and very long shirt lengths using slim cuts paired with Capri pants. In Lahore, girls didn't wear short shirts for a very long time," says Nickie. A fawn collection was lent drama with a colour burst of soft pink and fuchsia Japanese blossoms created with strips of organza and ribbon. A traditional Parsi gaara was given a modern twist using the gaara border and combining it with single taar, thread and crystals.

There was also a smattering of pretty and demurely ethnic, brightly hued block prints embellished with sequins, turquoise beads, kundan and crystals. The designers say that they don't want to change nor downplay their signature slim silhouettes and bling embellishment. They feel Karachites will enjoy the change that they offer. "We want to work at our own pace," says Nina. The design duo, who began their careers 12 years ago, initially only creating deep-hued and pastel bridal wear and evening wear by appointment only, began their prêt line in 2004 with the launch of their first boutique on Lahore's upscale M.M. Alam Road.

Nickie and Nina both say that their signature is all about the silhouette and admit that they find designing for the predominantly pear-shaped Pakistani woman challenging. They feel they can't experiment as much with cuts as they would like to but are able to let their freak flag fly with their couture pieces and embroidery.

"People who are known to be stylish know what they want," Nickie says. Some of the label's clients include film actresses Meera, Resham and Reema. "We also designed a wardrobe for another prominent client, Dr Maliha Lodhi. It was a pleasant challenge designing for her as she is a diplomat and tends to dress a bit more conservatively."

The sisters had a show in Jeddah in May 2005 for the royal families. "It was a lot of fun as we were allowed to go over the top," said Nina.

Nickie & Nina have held shows in Bombay and Delhi and were excited when Indian couturier Rohit Bal came backstage to look closely at their clothes and then encouraged his own clients to buy Nickie and Nina. "J. J. Valaya was also very encouraging," added Nina. Upcoming exhibitions for the duo include stints in New York, Houston, Chicago and London for their prêt eveningwear.

The busy pair is also planning a fashion show in Delhi using Indian models and a show in Dubai in October 2006. "We just want to sit in our shells and work," says Nina "But we are also quite involved in the Pakistan Fashion Design Council. I think creating a fashion council is a very positive step. If all the designers who are doing great work with beautiful workmanship get together, we will soon receive international recognition."

The delightfully elegant sisters say that the Nickie & Nina woman can be trendy but has to always be classic. "She can be experimental and welcome change which is positive, but she always has to retain an air of classicism," says Nickie stoically. And a final tip for Pakistani women? "Everyone interested in dressing up should keep in mind their own figures when picking out an outfit," Nickie and Nina both agree.

What the leading fashionistas have to say about Nickie & Nina.

Imran Kureishi: "The clothes are fabulous and beautiful, understated and well priced. It's great that we are seeing designers coming out of their bedrooms and garages and going to other cities."

Amir Adnan: "I love the shop. It's nice and glittering, upbeat and hip-hop. They are lucky to get such a prime location. The best thing for them is that the welcome from Karachi designers has been overwhelming which just goes to show that they are welcome here. They should become ambassadors to bridge the gaps and biases between the two cities."

Huma Adnan: I think their workmanship will be liked by Karachites. Their cuts are appealing and their choice of fabric is nice. They should have opened their store in Karachi long ago."

Maria Wasti: "I think Nickie and Nina opening here is great. I am enjoying the colour and cut of the outfit I am wearing and it's very comfortable to wear. I think Karachiites will love what they do. They should have come earlier as their clothes have the distinct flavour of Karachi.

Nomi Ansari: Their fabric choices are perfect for Karachi. To me the colour choices are also perfect for Karachi and summer. The clothes are nicely cut and stitched with elegant well placed trimmings. And I think the clothes are also very well priced."

Sunita Marshall: "The clothes are very comfortable and great for dinners and even day wear. The collection is very different. The outfit I chose has delicate threadwork which makes it a perfect prêt/rtw piece. I think the pricing is not bad as you're also paying for a designer label."