For awhile now, I’ve been focusing on the growth in New Mexico of large scale organic farms (dairies, peanuts, cotton) but that’s only because its really new in relation to the many small farms that have been certified organic for years.

The New Mexico Organic Commodity Commission (now in our eighteenth year!) was built on the strength, hard work and tenacity of the small organic grower: a few acres of apple orchards, mixed vegetables and medicinal/culinary herbs. There’s no less small farms than before; just many more new big one. There’s still plenty of “little guys” out there as evidenced by the amazing mix of fresh produce you can find at your local growers’ market.

Many of them grow organically even if they happen not be certified organic. In many ways, achieving certification is harder on the small operation. The paperwork requirements can be overwhelming because certification is built on verification: receipts for organic seeds /seedlings and allowed fertilizers/pest control materials; logging and documenting planting, harvest & sales; soil tests; labeling; pre-cleaning of borrowed or rented equipment that may have been used on non-organic farms. Its endless. 

The dairy or peanut butter facility already has people whose job it is to keep records and meet bureaucratic requirements of up to a dozen agencies for health and safety licenses. Even the large scale family farm is used to keeping some kind of records for taxes and bank loans (and it should be noted --and applauded--that this bookkeeping duty is most often taken on by the farmer’s wife who’s doing this in addition to her family duties). By comparison, the small grower may often be holding down another job in order to keep the place running and can barely-- if at all-- afford hired help in the field. Forget about bookkeepers!

These are the hardworking folks who’ve built the organic movement. Think about it. In all the years we’ve read the word “organic” in major newspapers & magazines, except for a few grains & beans until recently its mostly been used in relation to vegetables & fruit. Raising huge monocrops of organic carrots or broccoli has its own set of difficult challenges but the entire farm is pretty much on the same schedule.

But a mixed acre of two of carrots, broccoli, lettuce, mustards, corn, beans, peas, salad greens, beets, radishes, corn, melons, squash, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, garlic, onions, herbs, a few fruit trees and a flock of chickens? Every crop has its own needs at specific times and they don’t take turns. How do you choose between picking the snap beans that will be too tough by tomorrow or watering the cukes that are beginning to wilt? The zucchini is covered with squash bugs that need intensive hand-picking while the tomatoes desperately need a feeding. Oh, and the irrigation ditch just overflowed and hey how did the chickens get out into the neighbor’s yard again? Its a juggling act more amazing than anything you’ll see in a circus.

Organic Certification was begun by farmers who had outgrown their local markets and customers and began selling to out-of-state distributors. When your local customers know you and the quality of your crop, being “officially” organic may not count for much. But those far-off buyers wanted some assurance of what they were getting, hence the convoluted certification system which is still in its infancy (less than ten years)as a federal program.

If the requirements and fees become to much for the small farm, they may choose to opt out of organic certification altogether and concentrate on the local markets. There’s some incredible certified organic small farms out there but I’ve seen many non-certified farms go above and beyond the organic rule as far as sustainability and environmental impact. And I’ve also heard many a grower tell me he’s organic but uses a little RoundUp herbicide here & there and an occasional shot of MiracleGro.

So how do you as a consumer know whom to trust? Most farmers markets require those folks making organic claims to display their organic certificate. But if the grower you’re talking to doesn’t have one, ask about their methods and inputs. Get to know them and if possible visit the farm sometime. There’s a lot to be said for buying local produce (I’ll usually opt for it myself) but if the farm is using synthetics & poisons, that’s not the local economy I want to support.

In any case we’re fortunate to have many small & dedicated organic farms in New Mexico. Take the time to visit your local farmer’s market and meet these folks. And believe me, no matter what you pay for their products, they’re not making enough.