Prologue - May 16th, 2005 (updated June 23rd, 2007)

Every so often someone asks me 'what's there to see in Portsmouth?' I enthusiastically rattle off a bunch of thoroughly confusing random ideas and that's usually the end of it. Well about this time last year (2004) I somehow got caught up in tracing the path of the WW2 'Submarine Nets' across the mouth of Portsmouth Harbor and in the process I created the beginnings of my first Portsmouth travelogue… It sounds like a trip all over creation but in reality it covers but 15 miles – maybe 20 counting scenic detours. I would allow a day to take it all in although I suspect that one could follow the route while taking a few pix along the way and still wrap it up in 4 hours.

I initially utilized the Teraserver Map Service to layout the route however Google Earth now provides far superior mapping services. I encourage you to launch Google Earth and have look at the area prior to setting out on your 'journey of discovery'.

What is missing within the travelogue is insight into why Portsmouth is what it is. Therefore I'll preface the actual travelogue with the following bit of context.

Think of Portsmouth as the 'front door' into the interior. To and from this port flowed the products which enriched the lives of the first settlers - mast pines, barrel staves, furs and fish on the way out and molasses, rum, sugar, and wine on the return trip. Dried cod was shipped to the Caribbean to feed the slaves working the sugar-cane plantations. Molasses and rum was made with the sugar and sailed back up to Portsmouth. But why Portsmouth? Well..it's all about location.

The Piscataqua River is actually a large tidal estuary formed by the conference of several smaller rivers - the mouth of which forms Portsmouth Harbor. The harbor its self consists of a series of narrow serpentine paths littered with rock outcroppings and islands. Mix this with some of the swiftest tidal currents in the world and you have a harbor that while easily defended requires considerable skill to navigate. However this strategic location provided upstream access to valuable inland resources and a great staging area for what would become a very prosperous fishing industry. The defensive nature of the harbor also lead to its selection as this countries first Naval Shipyard in 1800.

The Piscataqua is navigable upstream for about 20 miles before it becomes impassable to boats due to a series of small waterfalls. The main tributary of which is the Salmon Falls River. In the area at the conference of the Great Works and Salmon Falls Rivers – now Berwick Maine and Salmon Falls New Hampshire – the first settlers established their various export enterprises. It was here that they built a shipyard along with the first water powered mills in the colonies. From these resources they created valuable goods which were then sent down river and shipped out of Portsmouth. But that's another story…

Anyway I figured that you might find the following 'travelogue' interesting, if for no other reason than its 'entertainment value'.

Travelogue - May 5th, 2004

I got to looking over maps of Portsmouth Harbor this morning with the intention of identifying where the ends of the WW2 'Submarine Nets' were anchored. So off I go to the Teraserver map site. I used Teraserver cuz they have good aerial coverage and decent topographical maps. Hint: you can shift between the 2 types of views, shift to a 'Large map', and zoom in/out via the menu toolbar on the left-hand side of the page. Anyhow, I discovered that both points have some sort of 'extension'- a break water perhaps – that point to Great Island. I'm betting that those 'features' have something to do with the nets…

Now I knew that the ends of the net were anchored at Fort Foster to the north and Fort Stark to the south but I wondered just how far that is – it turns out that it's just seven tenths of a mile across the harbor mouth. The net(s) apparently stretched across the shipping chanel from Fort Stark to Wood Island. The short section from Wood Island to Fort Foster was protected by Anti-Motor Torpedo Boat defenses as the water was too shallow for the nets. This is a much shorter distance than I had previously imagined that the nets would need to be strung. I had envisioned them running from Odiorne Point to Gerrish Island which is close to a 15 mile drive around the harbor. However, it's quite a bit shorter when traveling 'point to point' via water.

Hmmmm... I wonder what the shortest route is via Land? So I mapped out a course, attempting to stay as close to the shore as possible, just to see where it would lead. It turns out that much of the journey would lead across various islands in Portsmouth Harbor and would pass by all 5 Seacoast Forts which remain open to the public. All told I figure about 15 miles to circle Portsmouth Harbor in this manner. Hey..this looks like an interesting day trip with a whole lot of photo-opportunities…

The way I see it is you go out to Odiorne Park (formerly known as Fort Dearborn, Battery 204) and walk out to the point where you have an unobstructed view across the mouth of the harbor to Gerrish Island in Kittery Maine. I recommend that you visit the Seacoast Science Center while there as it houses many interesting marine exhibits and historical artifacts. Those will help set the stage for what you will see in your travels today. Read the signs, take some pix, have a smoke, whatever – they have public restrooms there – before setting off for Gerrish Island on the opposite side of the harbor (the home of Fort Foster Park).

Leaving Odiorne Park turn right and you'll find yourself shortly crossing Witch Creek via a rickety plank bridge – there's a pull-over here with a good view of the creek and the Wentworth Hotel to the right and a big salt marsh to the left. Then it's on to Foyes Corner heading toward Sagamore Creek. BTW: If you are hungry there is a great breakfast restaurant, The Golden Egg, just short of the bridge on your right. Park across the street and take-in the view of the fishing boats on Sagamore creek if so inclined.

If breakfast is not on your agenda then you should hang a right on route 1B (Wentworth Road) before the restaurant and head out onto New Castle Island. Wind your way across New Castle Island past the Wentworth Hotel. If you wish to take in the Fort Stark installation then you can do so by taking a short detour down Wild Rose lane located about 3 tenths of a mile past the Wentworth. It's is a sharp right and a straight shot down to Fort Stark. The encampment area is located on the coast a bit under half a mile at the end of the road. Looking out to sea the main shipping channel up the Piscataqua is to the left – the channel to the right meanders up through the harbor islands rejoining the river below the Memorial bridge. The small island to the left with the quaint looking 'house' is Wood Island and the house is the "Coast Guard House". The light on the bit of rock to the right (Whale Back Ledge) is the "Whale Back Light Station".

Leaving Fort Stark, just a short distance ahead - perhaps a tenth of a mile - is Great Island Commons. It offers a great park with commanding views of the harbor. Nestled to the left of the commons is a wonderful little known beach...

Continuing on across New Castle Island for another half a mile and you'll pass the site of Fort Constitution (originally this was Fort William and Mary). Look for a sign on the right pointing to the U.S. Coast Guard Station – it will be on a sharp left-hand corner. It's but a few hundred yards down to Fort Point where the ruins of the fort base walls can still be seen. To the right of the fort stands another rather picturesque structure, the Fort Point Light House. This cast-iron Lighthouse with its octagonal base was erected in 1877. It replaced an earlier wooden tower that was built in 1803.

After leaving Fort Point you continue west on route 1B and you'll cross Goat Island and finally Shapleigh Island. As you begin crossing the first in a series of 3 bridges and causeways you'll see a large hotel like structure to your right across the main shipping Chanel. That imposing structure is the decommissioned Portsmouth Naval Prison - the most infamous WW2 'brig' in the Navy. The current structure dates from 1905. It was built on the site of Fort Sullivan - an American Revolutionary fort built in 1775. It was then rebuilt during the Civil War. It was used to house Spanish American War prisoners in 1898 and up to 3,000 naval prisoners during World War II. Even though it occupies one of the prime pieces of real estate in Portsmouth it has stood vacant for decades.

Continue on and you'll come ashore just south of the South Mill Pond. You are now in Portsmouth's historic South-end. At its center, a short distance ahead, lies Strawberry Banke. Called Puddle Dock by the original settlers back in 1630, this is New Hampshire's oldest seacoast neighborhood. A bit further on you'll come to an intersection of sorts where several streets seem to merge rather chaotically – no biggie - simply follow the "Strawberry Banke" signs. Heading west on Marcy Street (a very narrow cobble stone street lined with quaint old homes) you'll pass by Strawberry Banke and Prescott Park . Both offer some great photo-opps. BTW: There is an enchanting little walled garden across from Strawberry Banke – right behind the "Prescott Park" sign. Check it out – you won't be disappointed. There are public restrooms just behind and to the left of the walled garden.

Marcy Street ends about 100 yards past the walled garden at the foot of the Memorial Bridge. Turn right and then circle around beneath the bridge, keeping to the left, go up and onto the bridge. You are now on the Memorial Bridge - it is the tallest of 3 'lift bridges' of this type in the US and rises 150 feet over the river. It was dedicated in 1923 to honor those who gave their lives defending our country. Cross Badgers Island and continue over the river. You'll pass Warren's Lobster House (a great salad bar). Stay straight 'till you 'dead end' in a couple of hundred yards. Go right at the junction on Goverment Street. Head east through the center of Kittery village past the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard entrance. Turn right on to route 103. You'll then cross Spruce Creek over to Kittery Point.

Hugging the harbor continue east passing by Fort McClary on your right. The Fort McClary defence works dates back to 1689 when wealthy Portsmouth merchant William Pepperrill established a harbor defence works there. The present structures dates from 1844 when the large hexagonal blockhouse that exists today was built.

Continuing on for another 4 tenths of a mile and you'll pass Frisbee Market and Wharf. The Frisbee family has operated Frisbee's Store since 1828. It is the oldest grocery store in the US run continuously by the same family. Take a side trip gown to the wharf and admire the view of Pepperrill cove. The light house on the island is once again Whale Back Light with the Coast Guard House almost in front of it. Continue along side Chauncey Creek 'til you come to the bridge on the right. Crossing over Chauncey Creek take Pocahontas road south. You're almost there now – turning into the gates of Fort Foster, it's but a 'hop, skip, and a jump down to the point.

Of course you've been taking pictures all along the way for inclusion in your own travelogue but you may have missed a few… So why not backtrack into Portsmouth and have a look around. Park in the Parking Garage – the roof is a great spot if it's good weather. Take a stroll down Market Street… Have fun and keep an eye out for that magic picture... /Bonzai

BTW: I stumbled upon the article ' A treasure more precious than gold ' which provides an interesting perspective on the evolution of Portsmouth from 1623 up to today.