tour journal 3: june 15-20

Monday, June 15

Drove from Amarillo to Albuquerque; house concert tonight at Christina Herr’s and Martin Rowell’s beautiful house on the NW side of the city. I met Christina and Martin by chance--during last year’s AMA conference. I’d gotten called at the last minute to fill in for Robin and Linda Williams, who were scheduled to play a showcase at 3rd and Lindsley but couldn’t make it due to travel delays, and C. and M. were there. Martin is from north Louisiana, too, so we had a lot to talk about. Nine months later, I found myself in their home--a perfect cozy setting. I arrived late afternoon, loaded in, and laid myself out flat for an hour. Windows open, great breeze. Before I knew it, it was time to change clothes and get ready for the gig. For a Monday night we had a good turnout, I’d say around 25 people. I love playing house concerts, but those of you who know my music might agree when I say that it’s not the most obvious fit--typical esoteric polite strummer I am not. Not that everyone who plays house shows IS, but . . . I think you know what I’m sayin’. I requested a small p.a., just to make sure the vocals got out there. I was told later that one audience member asked our hosts, “what’s the microphone for?”. The size of the room and the adobe walls required that I keep the guitar amp turned down, but that’s okay--I love that kind of challenge, and I think having to play at low volume can bring great things out of a performance, creating a kind of tension that you have to work through. Lots of folks brought food--amazing food . . . who was it, Linda(?), who brought those enchiladas? Along with the great food, I remember quite a few dogs came along with their owners for the show as well. Martin and his pals opened the show and it was a great treat to hear them. A great night--thanks so much to Christina and Martin for hosting me, and for opening their house for the show; I really enjoyed meeting so many folks from the local music community. Check out Christina’s own great music here: http://www.echristinaherr...com

Tuesday June 16

Sought out the Owl Cafe in Albuquerque for breakfast; it was big, beautiful, and tasty. Carnitas in adobo sauce, w/scrambled eggs, beans, and home fries. I didn’t eat another meal all day. Drove to Kingman, AZ, though was tempted to stop in Flagstaff . . . lots of evergreens, hills, but the tourist-attraction factor probably would’ve made it a more expensive option. Found a Days Inn in Kingman, where a gang of workmen was also staying, tipping beers in the parking lot when I drove in. They were surprisingly quiet, gone in the morning without a sound before I woke up.

Wednesday June 17

Drove from Kingman to Los Angeles today. (Again, lots of video shot along the way with narration that I can’t get to right now since my camera’s broken). Lots of anxiety driving into the city--but the traffic was no crazier than Chicago or Atlanta. Stayed with my friends G. and M., who have a beautiful spot just up the hill from Sunset; from their dining room table you can look all the way down to the water. They are the living answer to the stereotypical Hollywood character-sketch. Native southerners, they’ve retained a kind of down-home vibe in their home and their extreme hospitality while embracing the things about L.A. that they love.

Thursday June 18

Wasn’t sure where I was going to stay tonight, but G., when he realized I had nowhere to go, graciously invited me to stay there again. I had a couple of meetings that day not far from their place, so it was really convenient. Had a beer with my old friend Chris Offutt, at a patio bar sorta joint on Sunset, the Cat and Fiddle. Chris has had several books published since our days together in grad school, and is currently working as a writer/producer for a popular series on Showtime. And bless his heart, he keeps writing my songs into his screenplays. I am very grateful, and flattered that he likes my work so much.

Friday June 19

Up and out early, for the drive north to Brookdale, CA, up in the hills outside Santa Cruz, where I’m playing tonight with fellow east Nashvillian Stephen Simmons. M. made me some incredible trail mix for the ride. These folks were so kind to me--two of many roadside angels I’ve encountered along the way this trip--it was hard to leave, and made me eager to return, though next time, I’ll play a show!

I ended up getting lost, thanks to my GPS spokeswoman, who tends to talk a little too much in the abstract, and a little too slowly, when I really need to know where and when to turn. Somewhere around Gilroy (home of the annual garlic festival--and yes, you can smell it all over, it’s wonderful)--but eventually I found the way, though when I got closer to Brookdale it took a while to figure out exactly where to go. I’d been there when McMahan and I stayed there a few years ago, and I guess I’d oversimplified the route in my mind. The gravel road up the hill to the house where I’m staying felt pitched at about a 60 degree angle, and the single lane might’ve been about 4 feet wide. Tight turns and steep drops, winding thru those stoic old redwoods. This ain’t Hollywood, no more.


from my journal:

Sat. 6/20, 9:08 a.m.
Pamela and Alistair’s
Brookdale CA

The blue-plumed black bird drops into the gutter & cocks its head. I’m in bed, up on the 2nd floor of a beautiful old house at the top of a hill, just down the road from the Brookdale Inn, where Stephen (Simmons) and I played last night. Terrible gig. I made $15, and sold 2 CDs; Stephen had a hostile encounter with a managerial type--and I’m really glad I wasn’t around when it happened. The booker who’d hired us had been fired, a non-local company had just assumed ownership of the place, and no one seemed to know anything. Our names weren’t on the marquee (though acts for every other night that week were)--it had the vibe, even before setting up, of inherent chaos and failure. A cocktail lounge singer with excessive vibrato warbled away on the other side of a curtain, for the dinner crowd, while we were setting up. Music, sweet music. But we made it through, played for our hosts and one of their friends; yes, a crowd of three. Got back here by midnight, had a beer with Stephen, much gnashing of teeth, etc.-- some elements of our conversation probably couldn’t have stood the daylight--I came up here and crashed at about 1, while downstairs at the front door a cat was pleading to be let in.

I wish I could spend a week here, writing and thinking, it’s so quiet and cool. Pamela and Alistair, our hosts, were so sweet--made us dinner before the show, and breakfast and coffee before I left.

Gotta clean out the van--picking up Ron and Rich at the hotel by the Oakland airport, on the way up to Napa. I need a day just to get re-organized (but was I ever?)--but that won’t happen til Monday. Busy today, playing a party tonight, then up early for the drive back down to Watsonville for the KPIG show tomorrow morning; another show back up north of Napa, in Sebastopol tomorrow night.

(as much as I'd like to, the #$%&! myspace photo upload thing is preventing me from adding photos to this post; please visit my facebook page to see them.)