About 18 months ago I had an idea to tot up all the countries I'd played in. That's the sort of silly thing I occupy my idle mind with. Collecting data in various ways. Anyway at that time the total was 29. Uopn realising this I eagerly awaited my 30th. I nearly went to Russia last december but it fell through and since then I have merely revisited countries I had played before.
So when Agent Rory rang me and asked if I'd consider playing in Kazakhstan at very short notice I jumped at it. Even tho I hadn't the faintest idea about the place.
I did a little research and discovered to my amazement that it is the 9th biggest country on the planet! That it was that part of the former soviet Union used for Space Launches and Nuclear programs. Also that it is believed to be where Humans first domesticated the Horse. Those around me reminded me of the Ali G character Borat but I knew that would be a red herring.
Somewhat strangely my itinerary required me to leave on thursday at 2pm and not return to london until Sunday at the same time. The reason became clear after take off. I hadn't quite prepared myself for how far it was. Including the stop off in Ekatrinburg, Russia, the journey there was 9 hours and 10 hours back due to the prevailing winds.
My host Biba was fantastic, he whisked me through the VIP section of the airport which isn't uncommon in those parts of the world. He had some Foreign Ministry card. Over breakfast of fish soup he started to tell me a little of his land. For a 21 year old he was really well informed.
Turns out that Kazakstan is now the wealthiest by far of the Former USSR states. Partly due to there oil and mineral resources but also because they continue to have the Space launch Capabilities and that the US had paid vast sums to ensure the closure of former Soviet Biological Weapons programs. The population had dwindled during the hard times afdter the Soviet break up of '91 but now there i smass immigration due to the growth. Still for a country of it's size and it is mindboggling huge, it has a very low population.
However, it is populated by a very broad range of peoples. Clearly recognisable are the features of the Mongols and Northern Chinese, the Slavs and also the desert Arabs of the more familiar 'stan states further south. All these people seem to coexist very harmoniously. Also, for a muslim country, there was very little evidence of a highly religious influence in daily life, indeed I didn't see a single Mosque while I was there.
Some had led me to believe that I would be entering a Terrorist hotbed. People I think have become very suspicious of anywhere with 'stan in it's name. Shame of narrow minded and ignorant thinking.
My host careered around the city first in his A6 then switched to a Toyota Landcruiser which was a very poplular car. The driving rules seemed very relaxed although Biba's house had been visited several times by the police to try to revoke his license due to the number of driving offences he made. He also had a penchant for parking in the most outrageous spots. This included mounting steps to park infront of a memorial gun in the park where the club was. I think he enjoyed breaking the rules.
The club reminded me a lot of similar places in Serbia and Hungary. A great and slightly industrial space which had been nicely decked out. The usual cigerette and Alcohol Sponsorship made my visit possible and they were in great evidence (as in many eastern states, you sometimes get the feeling that it is illegal not to smoke, a carton of Marlboro's cost 40p!).
Some extra touches ahd been laid on. There was a performance on stage in which an upturned bike, a fan and an angle grinded length of steel were all mic'd up and two guys "played" them over some minimal beats.
There was also a troop of 5 deviant teletubby look alikes prancing around creating mischief in total silence. Very amusing.
Dj Sniper was the local dood. He played a good set of tight tough house. The theme of the party involved a connection for an hour to another party in Astansa (the new capital) via satelite link up. Unfortunatel as is often the case with these things. The idea sounds good but in reality this upset the flow. Biba admitted as much and thought he wd restrict this idea to a lounge area in future. Anyway my set was well enjoyed. They were clearly educated to breaks. Not like some places I've played in China, for example, where they are clearly totally new to the music.
The following day we went immediatelt to have the car washed. Leaving it with the staff and retiring to a roof terrace restaurant above the Car wash to eat (neat idea no?) and be interviewed.
We could see the nearby mountains to which we would later travel. Indeed I'd had a beautiful view of these 7000 metre peaks from my Hotel window which was fortunate since it was only due to a booking error that I ended up there and not in a more central, dingy location.
I asked Biba why the capital had changed from Almaty in the east (where we were) to Astansa which was further west and north. He replied that the reasons were manifold.
Firstly realations are far better between Kazakstan and Russia than they are with China so a capital that is nearer that border is better. Also the Almaty region is susceptible to earthquakes. 100 years ago one of 9 on the richter sacle had struck the nearby region. Which seems huge. On maps in China the eastern regions of K'stan are part of china so that affected relations with them although they do sell a good deal of oil there. Finally they'd looked for a place that was totally new and able to grow a new high tech infrastructure. Almaty is clearly an ancient city and restricted as a result.
We headed off to the mountains. First passing the biggest beauty salon in the former soviet Union which looked like a huge egyptian temple and was in the middle of what was a clearly a very new and rich residential enclave. Driving up an up and up. Past a winter sports stadium at Medey and over a Damn wall that prevented flood waters and avalanches sweeping down into the city in winter as they had done 70 years previously. The air got thinner but purer. The trees seemed to grow directly from the soil having no visible trunks. There were many peeps up there in rudimantary shacks. Kind of holiday homes but really ramshackle. All were up there in their flashy 4x4's that had replaced the old favourite Nevo 4x4 Lada. A cute vehicle we also saw a few of.
Came across a Yurt. Like those you see the Nomads of Mongolia using in Ray Mear's shows. Indeed Biba told me that Genghis Khan had originally come from the Steppe of Kazakstan and not that of mongolia as many believed.
We journeyed down and ate and returned to the VIP area of the Airport where security is so lapsed that you wonder what all the fuss is about at Heathrow.
Really the only birds that I really identified with there were the Common Minah that you see so many of in China, Thailand and now Australia and NZ too. It was this fact perhaps more than any other that made me realise that I was truly in Asia. But I think that in Kazakstan the world has a place that really bridges divides. A land that stands on the borders of three distinct, huge and ancient cultures and yet seems free from conflict and also seems to be thriving and prosperous.
I highly recommend a visit.