He invented the Sex Pistols. He did the great rock'n'roll swindle. He turned fashion into SM. He managed the whole safety pins thing. Now a philosopher, Malcolm McLaren talks to FAKE about being punk 30 years later.
An interview by Agustín G. Cascales
-What does punk mean to you right now?
Malcolm McLaren: It certainly means nothing is worth doing unless it is sexy, subversive and stylish. To challenge authority, tradition and "normal" behavior is at the very heart of being Punk.
- Do you feel the concept has evolved during these 30 years?
M.M.: Unquestionably, it has now become more impactful than any Picasso painting—more fundamental to popular culture than the American invention of the motorcar. And is, unquestionably, for those of 13 years of age, more sexy than sex itself.
- The punk aesthetics and the look have remained basically the same. Did it become a fashion trend from day one?
M.M.: It became a trend by my involvement in fashion. I always saw fashion as the musical end of painting. This led me to design and create something that became known as "anti-fashion". The rise of the street in making ugliness beautiful, Making the impossible profound. Designing a pair of trousers that at first sight you would think were impossible to walk in. Simply because they had their legs tied together. Its metaphors were huge. And represented something more than just fashion, for it allowed everyone to find their own identity in style through doing it themselves. It turned fashion into art.
- When did you know that the punk culture was here to stay and become a classic?
M.M.: I felt that something had happened when I managed to create the Sex Shop and those entering -those young enough- didn't ever want to leave. It was a magical place at the far end of the King's Road in Chelsea. It forced people, I suspect, to never want to return to normality again. They somehow began to reach out towards a place unknown.
- Certainly, the rebelllious aspect of punk disappeared soon, don't you think?
M.M.: No, it simply morphed into a young generation's desires to achieve their dreams—to become artists, fashion designers, movie makers… to change the culture and in doing so, possibly change life itself.
- In what kind of contemporary artists do you see today an interesting punk influence?
M.M.: All contemporary artists from Richard Prince to Damien Hirst, from Nicolas Ghesquière, to Riccardo Tisci to the Arctic Monkeys to Pete Doherty, to Amy Winehouse, they all share in the Punk aesthetic, demanding the impossible. They all reach out to beat up the corporate culture.
- Playing with the concept of "being bad" you became really good at selling punk to the world. Do you feel you were as good an artist as a business man?
M.M.: I never was a business man. I simply sold art as action in pop culture. That meant, music and fashion.
- What do you miss the most about the early punk years that you enjoyed to the fullest?
M.M.: I thrilled to its cry of innocence, to its disgust at things old. It is unforgettable, irresponsible, and childish -everything society hates.
- Do you feel punk has just become a fashion statement today?
M.M.: Punk in its most profound state, is art if you want it to be. It is fashion if you want it to be and it is music if you want it to be. It is the living soul of the post-twentieth century and we still feel very excited about that.
- Avril Lavigne says she's a punk; the Sex Pistols return with a big show celebrating punk… Are those good examples of what punk musicians should be like?
M.M.: Punk is what people aspire to. But down on the street, it is the real people who decide whether they believe them or not.
- Now you're coming to Madrid to celebrate punk's 30th anniversary sponsored by Beefeater. How do you feel about an event that is more about the red carpet that about rebelling against the system? Is that another way of being punk?
M.M.: Sadly, I am as much a part of the system as against it. In doing this show, and being a part of the event, is simply to celebrate its importance as a statement against corporate culture but at the same time, expose to those who care, that Punk is the measurement against what all corporate culture uses to define what is cool.
- Was Vivienne Westwood the best ally you could have to materialize your vission of punk?
M.M.: She was brilliant but truly believed in the culture only because I did. I made it happen. I inspired her. In truth, she always worshipped the past. She put its culture up on a pedestal and I was always trying to knock it down. Secretly, I guess, she really wanted to dress the Queen.
- Over the years you've worked and socializad with admirable divas (from Boy George to the New York Dolls or Catherine Deneuve) in the most eclectic projects. Is it easy for you to tame artists with strrong personalites?
M.M.: I don't tame artists. I try to bring out the worst. I always believe to be bad is good as to be good is simply boring.
- What do you hope punk can bring to upcoming cultural trends and movements?
M.M.: A way of looking at the world as a child might—to continue to be anti-corporate. Punk is pure in an impure way. And remember: Never trust a hippy!