You want these. They are the best chicken wings I've ever had, and I'd hazard a guess that they are the best in the world.

Glowing sparks from burning wood coals are flying everywhere and hot chicken fat drips and spatters as the man in charge of Wong Ah Wah's famous chicken wings turns out vast quantities of this almost drug-like dish. He attends to a partially-open BBQ smoker lined with wood charcoals radiating intense heat, blazing red-orange and glistening black, appearing almost lava-like. Holding fifteen to twenty wings, a metal spit/skewer with a wooden handle on the end slides into a groove on the side of the smoker, and our man furiously rotates four or five of them (the spits) at a time with his left hand, almost exactly as he would be if he were playing a one-on-one Foosball World-Cup Final against himself. All the while, with an old straw fan in his right hand, he fans the fire, circulating smoke not only around the wings that are cooking inside the smoker, but also up and over and out, making contact with the raw skewered wings that are resting on top of it, waiting in the wings so to speak, which before being cooked have already been semi-marinated (and from what I could tell don't seem to have been marinated in anything else beforehand) in that delicious and pungent flavor element. Every now and again, the cooking wings are brushed with oil. Our man wears big work boots, blue jeans streaked coal-black, and a long-sleeved shirt, even in this heat, and he knows the precise moment when the Foosball-player wings are done. Without a flourish, he removes a spit from the smoker, slides the wings off the spit and onto a waiting tray, and turns back to the fiery furnace. It's impressive.

The wings smell like sweet smoke, rendered fat, and cooking caramel, aromas that frame and balance the more savory, animal taste of the chicken, its saltiness, its fleshiness. The wings drip juice and fat, and while they can stand alone (and must be tried that way) there is a sweet and spicy chili sauce served alongside them, which is delicious and should not go without mention.